How To Guides

[Scotty T]

Great work Stan,

 

Remeber you gave me some photos and advice earlier in the year when I was re doing one of my beach rods, took me a while but got there in the end

 

Scott

[stan4massey]

OK I`ve made up some photos, stuck them through photoshop, all max size 640 x summat so what next??? Aint got a scooby how to stick them up, not sure how much use they will be as I aint no David Baillie

[Norrie]

Stan, mail me them, i'll add them in mate.....

[stan4massey]

Cheers Norrie, will do, or would do if I had your e mail addy. Send it through from the site message box.

 

Stan.

[Norrie]

OK Stan...you have PM mate !!!!!

[Norrie]

Ooops, !!!!

Edited December 11, 2006 by Norrie

[Norrie]

On behalf of Stan Massey !!!! Hope its ok Stan !!

 

 

 

Part One

 

 

 

 

Wrapping rod guides: Virtually every wrap is done in the same way except perhaps single leg guides where the finish of the wrap involves a “locking” wrap around the guide leg but that’s` not relevant at the moment. For the sake of photos I`ve done this sequence on a spare bit of blank using a light thread, anything I`m actually building just now involves dark thread so would`nt show up as well.

 

Have handy a burnishing tool and a loop to pull the thread through. I use an old chopstick made of bone, you can use a spoon handle, plastic biro, smooth edge of your scissors or simply your nails. A lot of people suggest a loop of thread but this can fray and cause snags. A loop of 6lb mono is more than sufficient. I wrap the end in a bit of masking tape then colour it with felt pen (simply because I`m forever dropping them and cant see the darned things on the floor without the red tag) The thread I use is Gudebrod NCP (non colour preserver). This holds it`s colour when resin or varnish is applied is applied. Size A or C is sufficient for virtually any rod, I use A most of the time (A is small diameter, C , D & E larger) Some people think the heavier threads will give a stronger job but in actual fact it`s the number of winds per given length that gives strength so A is actually the stronger option. Whatever thread you use, even a roller guide would distort before the thread gave if you tried to pull one off.

 

(thread tools)

 

Before wrapping we have to prepare the guide feet. With a few exceptions the factory finish guide foot is bulky and thread can`t run over it smoothly. I use a dedicated wheel for the job but it`s easy enough with a file. Simply taper the ends of the guide feet to allow the thread to pass over it smoothly.

 

(guides prepared) "Only one guide foot prepared to show difference"

 

FIRST AND FOREMOST WASH YOUR HANDS:

 

Now I`m right handed but if your left handed simply reverse the process described.

In the photo, to start the wrap I`ve put a piece of masking tape round the blank to give a perfect circle to start to. The actual guide is also taped onto the blank (one leg) using masking tape. I don’t use this method nowadays to start the wrap but it`s a good way of getting started if your not used to it and saves the thread slipping. Use low adhesion masking tape or insulation tape. High adhesion stuff can leave a residue that could affect the finish.

 

 

(thread wrap on)

 

I`m wrapping away from the masking tape (obviously) the thread in the fingers is being crossed over by the right hand thread, i.e. right hand thread is on top. Tighten down and still holding tight ease the thread into a nice neat circle next to the masking tape. Continue turning the main (right hand) thread until you have about four or five turns over the end and ( still always holding things tight) snip the original thread off

(the one that was in my fingers)

 

(cut thread tag)

 

Part two next post.......

Edited December 11, 2006 by Norrie

[Norrie]

Part two of Wrapping Rod guides. on behalf of Stan Massey !!!!

 

 

Part Two

 

 

 

 

Continue your wrap up and over the prepared guide feet until you are about 4 to 6 turns from the end of the wrap. Insert the loop but make sure it is well away from the area where the thread rises over the guide feet. At this point a small tunnel exists under the thread so if you pull through at that tunnel the wrap will be loose. (basically insert loop 180 degrees under from the guide feet). Take another few turns over the loop, snip the thread (about four to five inches long) and thread it through the loop, still holding things tight. Don’t worry too much about gaps in the thread at this stage unless they are very big, we can fix that later.

 

( loop inserted)

 

Keeping the thread loose end under tension slowly pull the loop back out and that will draw the thread with it. Hold the thread end under tension and snip it off with a very sharp blade ensuring you don’t cut the thread wrap. I use a scalpel but a sharp Stanley type blade is fine, just clean it first as they have oil on them when new.

 

( cut tag end)

 

Now using your nail just go round both ends of the the wrap and tighten them into a nice neat circle. If where you cut the thread off there is a small tag sticking out (called a furry) gently ease it under the main wrap with a darning needle or similar.

 

At this point there may be some gaps in the thread wrap so its time to burnish it which will close these gaps up and make it neat. You will just have to take my word for it that I can get it a lot neater than the pic, I left the gaps deliberately on this occasion, normally there are very few or none rolleyes.gif

 

(thread gaps & burnish)

 

Using the burnishing tool, whatever you’ve chosen, gently rub across the thread turns, up and down and they will slowly close up. Be careful towards the wrap ends as burnishing can push the last turn or two out of line. Whenever possible burnish with any heavier strokes in the direction of the butt, i.e. your are pushing threads towards the thicker taper of the blank. Should only take a minute or so and you have a completed wrap;

 

(finished wrap)

Edited December 11, 2006 by Norrie

[stan4massey]

Your a genius Mr S. Only slight thingy is that the cut tag end and cut thread tag piccies are reversed or to be more exact one is where the other should be.

[Norrie]

Your a genius Mr S. Only slight thingy is that the cut tag end and cut thread tag piccies are reversed or to be more exact one is where the other should be.

 

 

Well, they have been titled Cut Thread Tag, and Cut Tag End..... so, didnt know what they were !!!! Will go in now and alter it.....

 

 

 

GOING IN...........

 

 

 

 

Stan, Think thats it mate !!!!!!

Edited December 11, 2006 by Norrie