dead shower

[Gray-Catchpole]

Hi all

i smell bad and i need a shower, one problem its broke, there is no power going to the shower at all, and the light on the power switch in the airing cupboard is very dim when switched on, about half as bright as when the shower worked, the switch has its own trip on the mains box (R40), is there a simple fix for this, please help, we all smell.

[chesters1]

is it mains or is there a transformer?

 

if the switchbox runs to a transformer it maybe the transformer burnt out (the showers using the houses hot water usually have transformers),if its mains best not to mix with it and get another.

a belting though may free a stuck pump

Edited June 30, 2007 by chesters1

[Gray-Catchpole]

is it mains or is there a transformer

 

hi chesters,

all i know is that the shower is connected to a switch in the airing cupboard, and it has its own shut off at the mains box, sorry i can be more detailed.

[chesters1]

does it have one pipe or two going into it?

if one its an instant shower ,if two its a mixer type shower with a pump.

if one you need a bit of common to replace it oh the same for 2

water and leckie really cant mix see prof help

[Gray-Catchpole]

does it have one pipe or two going into it?

if one its an instant shower ,if two its a mixer type shower with a pump.

if one you need a bit of common to replace it oh the same for 2

water and leckie really cant mix see prof help

 

just the one pipe going to it, ive spoken to the people that provide cover for it and they say its not down to them, they are saying the switch is at fault. and im not covered for that.

[ayjay]

If it's not been professionally fitted it's possible that the switch (fused spur box?) is not up to it and has burnt out.

 

It will however pass enough current to light up a current detector or an integral neon light, I've seen it happen. You need a 30 amp switch for an electric shower.

[chesters1]

did they look first?

quite a accomplished sparks who can diagnose over the phone.

an electrician said we couldnt run our old central heating with a plug in timer ,infact it did for years ,you may not be able to use modern timers because the contacts are the minimum possible metal wise to get the current rating but our old mechanical one had real contacts

 

if the power gets as far as the pull switch in the bathroom then the first switch is ok if not the switch in the airing cupboards faulty,if the power gets to the shower then the showers had it unless the micro switch or over temperature switch has had it in the shower.if not the pull switch has had it

what would life be like without switches

the old fashioned test method was to plug the appentice in it nowadays meters are better.

i would still belt it just because you can.

 

off the record i would have a play myself

Edited June 30, 2007 by chesters1

[Newt]

Whew. Dang me if you folks ain't seriously fancy.

 

Our showers are similar to the kitchen sink. Turn a handle and cold water comes out. Turn another and hot water comes out. Set them in balance and warm water comes out.

[Gray-Catchpole]

If it's not been professionally fitted it's possible that the switch (fused spur box?) is not up to it and has burnt out.

 

It will however pass enough current to light up a current detector or an integral neon light, I've seen it happen. You need a 30 amp switch for an electric shower.

 

Hi Ajay

yes it was pro fitted, about 2 years ago, and has worked fine till now, is there some obvious mark so i can see if its 30amp.

 

chesters, yea i know great arnt thay, and as of today, i have no cover

[Gray-Catchpole]

hi chesters

there isnt a pull switch in the bathroom, just the switch in the airing cupboard, and the button on the shower,

 

Newt

oh how i wish ours was like that, i really do, the other day, i was that desparate, i tied our hose pipe to some fishing line, and dragged it up to our bathroom, and had a freezing cold(but very refreshing) hosing down.