80lb shock leader and rig set up

[ColinK]

quote:

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Well I am only shore fishing. Not too sure what is meant by the term "Rotten bottoms" though ?

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Posted this on WSF forum where someone else asked about rotten bottoms hope it helps you.

 

Rotten bottoms are used when fishing snaggy ground and are there to allow you a chance to retreive your trace when the lead is snagged. This is done by using a weaker link between the lead and the trace which only becomes active after the lead hits the water not during the cast.

 

 

There are several different rotten bottom set ups and it really depends what kind of fishing you are doing as to what type you use. The simplest if you are fishing straight down a wall or rock mark is to tie your lead on to lead link using line of a lighter breaking strain than your main line. You must not cast with this set up. The second is for a gentle lob you can use an open lead link generally called a rotter (think the name came from dave dowcra tackle) this is basically a hook shape you sit your lead on for casting and again tie your lead on with weak line eg Veals RBC Rotten Bottom Clip (http://veals.co.uk/acatalog/Veals_C...e_Clips_77.html) . When the lead hits the water it pops out the link and is only attached by the weak line. Next and in my opinion the best all round are the sea mach rock release links these consist of an oval split link and a long arm and a big bead (http://www.fishingmegastore.com/aca...hes_Clips.html). The lead is tied on and fed onto the long arm then the bead is pushed over the arm. When the set up hits the water the bead floats up the line and releases the lead. the disadvantage is you have to make your rigs up in advance with these. The advantage is they allow a decent cast with confidence. The best of all are the gemini breakers (http://www.gemini-tackle.co.uk/clips2.php). Very difficult to describe but similar principle to the rock release except they are all in the one piece. They can just be added onto a lead link. they are more expensive but will cope with all casting styles.

 

 

Also hope ia m not simplyfing thinds too much for you but at the end of your leader attact a lead link. Make up your desired trace with in most cases 60lb leader with a swivel at the top and a lead link at the bottom your trace is attached to your leader and the lead attached to your trace.

[Guest jay_con]

Ken Davison South Wales:

 

 

I have always thought the idea of rotten bottoms defeats using a shock leader as it is used to weaken the line strength

Hi Ken,

 

Using a rotten bottom does not weaken the line untill it (the rotten bottom) is engaged. Whilst casting the connection should be as strong as the rest of the set up. Some rotten bottom manufacturers advise that you do not power cast, A lthough a simple overhead thump will be Quite ok. The rotton bottom link shown here (or a variation of) is the type I use, and use quite effectively at times with a leader.

 

For power casting this type of rotton bottom Here will do fine.

 

Both of those rotton bottom devices work fine with a leader so long as you remember that the weak line must be weaker than the leader knot strength.

 

The latter of the 2 rotten bottom methods is also a good one for off the ground casting as you can lay the lead out without the clip unclipping.

 

<small>[ 07. September 2005, 12:55 PM: Message edited by: @AUTUMN@ ]</small>

[Spur-Hound]

Pompay Matt..

 

Prepare for a long and potentialy confusing post.

 

Fisrt of all, the first part of learning how to fish is always the hardest. If you can get through the first 5-10 sessions, you will have got through the worst of it; and if you still want to fish after that, you will find it easier and easier, and catching fish will become more easy. Getting bites, and hooking/landing fish is the objective... It will become second nature and you will really start to enjoy.

 

Right, your question still needs answering IMHO! Your shock leader should have nothing to do with your terminal tackle, ie your rig (Hook Line and sinker, with a few contraptions thrown in!)

 

Try to always use a shockleader, they are handy in most situations whilst shore fishing our coast, unless its close range fishing, but beachcasters, and leads of 4oz plus, use a shockleader.

 

For a start its good practise for tying knots etc, but secondly it gives you security. Not only for casting, but also for playing/landing a fish. The leader is where the seabed will contact most, and weak line will become damaged very quikly.

 

Ill explain streghnths in a minute, and you are very wise to add alittle extra for security, though i very rarely find the need to exceed 70lbs, with 60 bieng my usual, but thats just me. Its far more important to step-up the streghnth of mainline you use for tying a rig, because crimps/knots etc cause great weekness... So 70-80b is advised!

 

Im sidetracking slightly now, right.... At the end of your chosen shockleader, Tie on one of these...

 

 

These clips come in many shapes and forms, but i tend to favour the gemini 'genie clips' (pictured)

This clip you can quikly clip on a lead if you wish to practise casting, then quikly unclip it too. Then you can clip on the top swivel of your terminal rig, and off again if you wish to change style of rig for diffrent fish...

 

Rigs can be very confusing to start off with. If you just want to catch fish, ide go for a 3 hook flapper with small size 1 hooks... In fact, to start with, buy a few of the mustad ready rigs, and when your are confident, make copies. 3 hook flappers will catch you just about anything, and a small hook will catch a big fish!

 

When you become more confident still, you can experiment with clip down rigs, which ae earodynamic for casting distance, and you could even try big fish rigs with say, a 4/0 pennel if you are targetting bigger fish.

 

As your name suggests, i prosume your fishing the south coast of england. a 3 hook flapper would deffinetly catch you fish for starters, in the shape of whiting, flatties, schoolie bass...Just about anything really.

 

Good luck

Shaun

 

[ 07. September 2005, 02:40 PM: Message edited by: Spur-Hound ]

[Shonzy.]

Pompey Matt:

Ok thanks for the advice. The reason I bought 80lb was that I read that you should have 10lb of line for every oz of weight and as I often use a 6 oz gripper (6oz weight = 60lb shock leader) plus an extra 20lb for safety. So I guess a 60lb shock leader for the type of fishing "I try" and do would suffice.

 

Thanks.

When i first started beach casting i used 18lb line straight through and kept snapping the line every cast

I use 18.2kg (40lb in English) amnesia now on all my reels and have had no problem casting 8oz leads and thats really hittin em aswell.

 

[ 07. September 2005, 04:27 PM: Message edited by: Shonzy. ]

[Newt]

Pompey Matt:

The reason I bought 80lb was that I read that you should have 10lb of line for every oz of weight and as I often use a 6 oz gripper (6oz weight = 60lb shock leader) plus an extra 20lb for safety.

Absolutely good advice IF you are really wacking a cast out to distance. You need at least 3 times your rod length of the heavy stuff to avoid cracking off.

 

If you are casting only short distances, you can get by with much lighter shock leader.

 

There is another option you might want to consider. The various "super lines" like PowerPro give you high b/s without large diameter and stiffness. 80lb has the diameter of 18lb mono without being as stiff and without having the memory. If you spool with it, you avoid the need for a shock leader and you avoid the huge line that might spook a fish. Just bear in mind that the abrasion resistance of the 80lb PowerPro is similar to the 18lb mono so for rough ground where your line will be in contact with lots of sharp stuff, you might need some additional help - maybe the rig tubing the carp anglers are so fond of.

 

Good review of the line (and the same will apply to others made the same way) http://www.anglersnet.co.uk/reviews/powerpro.htm

 

Note that the reviewer left out some available line in the higher b/s because he is a fresh water angler and likely never uses anything above 30lb. To flesh out his chart, here are the higher b/s

 

b/s dia mono

80 .017 18

100 .018 20

150 .022 30

200 .030 50

250 .035 80

[spanner]

A couple of points to watch out for with braid, it has no stretch and it can cut through fingers with ease.

 

Thats not a problem if your cast is super smooth and you never make a mistake. But for most of us mortals stretch is a actually a good thing in a shockleader, as long as its not excessive, as a slightly mistimed cast can snap braid that has not been damaged at all.

 

So when power casting with braid it is better to use a mono shock leader.

 

[ 07. September 2005, 05:57 PM: Message edited by: spanner ]

[jeepster]

spanner, i think newt has used braid once or twice before

[spanner]

ahhh but does he power cast with it?

 

OK, I shouldn't have addressed my post to Newt as it was a generic comment about power casting with braid

 

[ 07. September 2005, 05:56 PM: Message edited by: spanner ]

[jeepster]

newts american, so i would imagine everything he does is more powerful than we do it

[chappers]

spur-hound is the only person who has really answered your question your shock leader should be nothing to do with your rig.

You shoud tie up your rig completely seperately, but your rig should be of the same strength as or leader or greater.

I fish quite a lot down your way and rarely find the need to go above 6 oz and always use a 60lb leader.

therefore the main body of all my rigs is 60lb too.

do a search on google for sea fishing rigs you will find plenty of sites.

 

Good luck.