Patrick Pending

Thanks for the PM Andrew Re-reading my post I could have worded it better What I said was, 'P13's are rotomoulded polyetheylene and should not sweat if manufactured correctly.' what I should of said (and actually meant) was: P13's are rotomoulded polyetheylene and polyetheylene does not sweat if manufactured correctly. It is clear that you have accurately diagnosed the problem as one of condensation. However, at the risk of labouring the point, I have to say that condensation is not the same as sweating even though it might look like it. Polyethylene does not sweat! All the best,

Hi fishfingers welcome aboard, I'm curious, what are you mounting and what are you testing? Also, can you give a bit more background to the last statement? Cheers,

Hi Foggy, I just read about this on Kayak Fishing UK here is a link: Freedom (thanks to Ray)

Hi Andrew, I don't think I made any attempt to diagnose the 'case' and all the statements I made were true. However, please tell me if you disagree.

Hi Greywulff, P13's are rotomoulded polyetheylene and should not sweat if manufactured correctly. Can you give a more detailed description? I have seen GRP hulls that appeared to sweat due to pin-holing of the gel-coat.

Slicing your leg open while a Great White circles your yak - now there is a case for carrying scupper plugs

Hi Chaz, Your catch rate will certainly go up (significantly) fishing from a yak and the fish will also be bigger are you sold yet?

I watched them all but I couldn't help thinking that it was just a matter of time before one of them ended up with a spinal injury Someone mentioned the compression and it was clear from watching, that all the leverage of the yak, twisting of the torso, and the shock of hitting the water was acting directly on the spine - no knee joints or hip joints to absorb the shock of landing! I like thrills (did a 200ft bungy jump over the North sea last year) but those clips looked like wheelchair roulette to me.

Silicone will do the job, many people use it and are happy with it. However, both Eagle and Humminbird advise against using silicone as it reduces sensitivity. It is also worth noting that silicon caulk is used in the field of soundproofing for its acoustic damping properties!

Martin, no offence taken as I am not a Geordie - mind, wor lass is though and she would have your guts for garters for making sweeping statements like that

Just the one brush to tar everyone with eh Martin?

Codshead is right you shouldn't use silicone for mounting transducers - From the Humminbird manual: "Do not use silicone or any other soft adhesive material to install the transducer, as this material will reduce the sensitivity of the unit. Do not use five-minute epoxy, as it has a tendency to cure before all the air bubbles can be purged, thus reducing signal strength." My take on it: If you use the wrong couplant (in this case the bonding material) you can significantly reduce the power transmitted by the transducer and consequently that of the received signal. What you will see on the screen is a perfectly clear picture of the strong echoes (e.g. seabed) and your FF will apear to be working perfectly. However, those echoes faint enough to drop below the threshold of detectability, due to the couplant losses, will not show! That means, you might be missing the (important) finer details such as where the small fish are - the big fish always call on the little fish for lunch

This is a great freeware tide predictor WXTide32 download it and run it from your own PC.

I have a Garmin 250C (Colour) and get about 4 hours on my 3.2 Ah (Sealed Lead Acid - not gel!) battery. I leave it on all the time I am out. Your GPS unit doesn't have a 500 watts (RMS) tranducer thumping out ultrasonic shock waves through the bottom of your boat so it isn't really comparable Power requirements of FF vary depending on the make and model but generally those with the highest drain will have the following (beneficial) characteristics: a large screen size a colour Screen high screen brightness high transducer output power If you want 8 hours use from your FF you could either get an additional similar size battery or replace it with one with at least twice the Ah rating.

What problems and why isn't it a good lubricant ? - just curious.

Simon, I prefer a nice Sauvignon Blanc but each to his own {2008 Editor's Note: to view lobster pots for sale, please click here}

Don't drink to much at the reception or you wont be fit to paddle on the Sunday All the best

I find that a hot glue gun works pretty good on yaks. It fills gaps, sets quickly and can be peeled away cleanly if you need to make changes at a later date.

Hi Tomcat, Be aware that what is allowed and legal in one area may not be in another. As Tobasco said, "check with the local SFC byelaws". Your local Sea Fisheries Committee will probably have a website with details of the byelaws for your area - try a search on "sea fisheries committee". BTW: You may even be breaking the law (depending on your area) by using certain types of bait in your pots! Best of luck

Nice work YakDiver and a great colour match, makes it look like it was a factory fit Would it be practicable to troll while sailing or do you need to concentrate on handling the yak? A nice onshore breeze should give you a free ride home though

Hi Tom, I have a pair of the Nookie Extreme dry pants (also have the top) and am very pleased with them. I wear Polartec tracksuit bottoms underneath them, which keep me warm and stops them getting clammy from perspiration. From a safety point of view it is widely recommended that you dress for immersion rather than whether the sun is shining. Drysuits/tops & pants are only really effective in the water if you use thermal layers under them.

Glad to hear you got it sorted and it's still a great bargain at that price Enjoy your trip out next week

I carry a stainless-steel mirror in my PFD pocket it has a short length of cord and clips on the whistle snapclip. I got it from Morrisons for a quid or two. It is one of those wash your hands without soap jobbies - I haven't tried its hand washing ability but it might be useful for cleaning fish slime from hands when at sea. It has rounded corners and already has a hole drilled at one end which you can attach the cord through.

"D I Y isnt so easy." for who? I haven't seen the damage but if the hole and the associated wear was circular the patch should also be circular. However, I suspect it isn't so it shouldn't. To deal with a split you drill a small hole at either end of the split before building it back up with filler rod. The purpose of the hole is to spread the stresses that caused the original split. However, I am fairly sure he didn't mention a split. As for the "lower price" and "unsaleable" it sounds like he got an absolute bargain - I would certainly pay £40 for it bodged or not. Sorry, GB but I think you have missed the point - as Glasgowdan said, "it's a £40 yak".

Only buy it if it specifically states it will bond to polyethylene - very few things do Here is a link that explains the basic priciples of plastic welding LINK There are many more welding tutorials on the Web. Points to note: You can't mix different types of plastic, the filler rod needs to be of the same material as the item that you are welding (note: Perception yaks are polyethylene.) Hold the filler rod almost vertical to the material you are welding Apply the heat to the base material rather than the filler rod Apply firm pressure to the filler rod pushing it in to the running weld Ideally you should use a temperature controlled hot air gun specifically made for plastic welding. However after practise I have managed successful welds with the following heat sources: Hot air de-soldering gun Butane pencil torch catalytic (flameless) pencil torch Hot air paint stripper (low heat setting and directional nozzle)