Hi all

[Redbaron]

Hi all new member and new to fishing so plz expect lots of stupid questions come from my direction. I have recently got into fishing thanks to my wife(how backwards is that) and am enjoying my self loads down at our local canal and even caught my first fish 2 days ago. my question is regarding float fishing, the floats i currantly have arnt very expensive to be honest, but they have info on them that i just dont seem to be able to get my head round. I think it has somthing to do with the amount of weight required to "cock" the float could some plz confirm or put me stright on this plz. Also when shotting is it better to go with the smaller weigths spread out or the larger weight. From what info i have found online this all deapends what depth u wish to fish at. I have not spent thousands on my fishing gear prob not even hundreds to be honest but i do get a buzz from just waiting for a bite weird how i only find this out in later life.

 

many thanks in advance

[Newt]

Hi Redbaron and welcome.

 

I can't help with your specific questions (my fish aren't nearly so picky and I've never had to get fancy with presentations) but I can tell you that fishing gear does not need to be expensive to be effective. You just need to know how to use it and there are plenty of experts on here who will be glad to help you with that.

[wayne baker]

Hello mate. Remember split shot comes in different sizes SSG AAA BB 1 4 6 8 . Each half the size of the other. So for example if you have a float that is rated 3 AAA you could use six bb to cock it if you wanted. Or a 2 BB float you could use four no 1 or six no 4. Depending on how you are fishing and want to present the bait on a canal i would want to evenly distribute the shot down the line. Unless i wanted to have a slower sinking bait then i would have it closer to the float. I ain't no expert of the finer elements of float shotting but I'm sure there's someone than can enlighten you a bit more. Hope Ive help you a little.

 

Regards Wayne

[Dick Dastardly]

Hi Red Baron and welcome to AN from me as well.

 

I think Waynes reply is a good one.Shotting patterns can be very basic or very complicated! I think its worth learning about them though as even small changes to where your shot are and what combination of sizes you use can make a lot of difference to your catch.Match anglers (well sucsessfull ones anyway!) are always playing around with their shotting patterns even if they are catching!

 

Its a massive subject and rather than apretty second rate float angler like myself trying to explain may I sugest you try and get hold of a copy of Billy Lanes Encyclopedia of Float Fishing. Its old and Ebay will be your best bet but its still in the mind of many the definitive work on the subject.

 

Im sure some will say why bother just enjoy your fishing! but to me learning about fishing is a lot of the fun!

[Andy Macfarlane]

Floats don't have to be expensive. Many pound shops are doing packs of 6 wagglers, of varying sizes, for a well.....a quid no less. I bought a few packs and they work just fine and most importantly cock, when the guided shot requirement is added.

 

When waggler fishing you don't have to go over the top. 3 or 4 patterns will get you along just about anywhere.

 

Bulk shot, near the bait will get your bait right down where you need it ASAP.

 

Bulk shot under and around the around the float will allow your bait to drop as near to naturally as possible, which is handy when loose-feeding. You might want to use a larger number of smaller shot, shirt-button style, which are spread out equally, which also allows to 'drop' baits as close to naturally as possible.

 

The sliding waggler, which basically has a stop knot or float stop set at a predetermined depth allows you to fish at extreme depths where casting a long flowing hooklength would be difficult. It could be the length of your drop is longer than your rod or it could simply be that you don't have the room behind you because of trees or man-made structures.

 

It's very handy to use float stops instead of locking the float with 2 shot on either side so depth adjustments can be made very quickly. Apart from being able to move a float up and down quickly, you don't have to use shot to lock the float in position.

 

Say you have a 4BB waggler. Normally you'd lock the float with 2 BBs on either side of the float and use another 2 BBs down at the bait. Hopeless for casting and not always fast enough if you want your bait down at your baited area in quick time. By using float stops, you can use all 4BBs down near the bait, which aids casting distance, gets the bait down quickly and can help to hold in a slight flow, like a canal or a wind-swept canal.

 

Whatever you do, practice different patterns and try, try, try until something works. If you get a predetermined depth, you might wish to mark the distance between your float and your hook with a little line of tippex or a non-permanent marker. Should a break-off or a snag occur, you can quickly set up again, knowing that depth has already been measured. It rubs off with a little water and your nail.

Edited June 30, 2009 by Andy Macfarlane

[Redbaron]

many thanks all

 

one last question whilst on the subject does anyone know where i can get a fishing shot weight guilde as i cant seem to find one anywhere online.

[Newt]

http://www.silksworthlakes.com/splitshotweightsizeratios/

[Ken L]

Hi and welcome.

A little basic information on stillwater float fishing can be found here. Hope this helps.

[Vagabond]

Hi Redbaron.

It would be a good idea to buy a "combination box" of split shot, containing sizes from SSG down to size 8. That will give you a good idea of what Wayne is talking about, and make sense of what might be printed on the side of your float (2BB etc)

 

Get in the habit of trying different shot patterns, and watch what happens - you will soon develop a feel for what is going on. Rarely will you be fishing still water in a flat calm. Canal water moves, the air above it certainly does, so learning to control the effects of both on your float (and hence on your baited hook) is important.

 

,,,,and if you want to be a REALLY good float fisherman, get Billy Lane's book as Budgie advises, and TAKE IT TO THE WATER with you, and try the floats and shot patterns Billy suggests. The fancy names of the floats has changed over the years, but the principle is the same.