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Trotting with braid - length of trace


The Flying Tench

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I permanently attach to the braid a 6ft length of low stretch mono like drennan floatfish in 5lb. The float and shot sit on that - the rubbers and the shot will grip better to mono than braid so with this set up I know that the float hasn't moved nor has the shot - both can move on the strike if mounted directly on the braid. At the end of this leader I attach a micro swivel and the hook length.

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One of the only things i'd use braid for is spinning...deffo not trotting that's for sure :nono: .

 

Imo the shorter the length of mono attatched to braid as a bottom the more chance there will be of a crack off...common sense really....bin the braid :punk:.

 

Oh, forgot to mention that on some occassions a floating line is preferd for still water fishing. Also how many monos have you not had to physically sink ?....I think most will float.

 

It probably depends on the types of waters you fish and size and species you expect. I'm fishing small streams for dace, smallish chub, the odd accidental trout, perhaps roach and perch, and the rod I use is very soft at the tip, so braid works very well. The surface currents are difficult too, mono used to get washed under the surface too easily making float control very difficult, braid floats like a cork.

 

Using 10lb PP in fast water with hooklengths down to 2lb, I haven't yet had the hooklength snap on a fish, even on angry 3lb+ brownies, which tend to go rather mental!

And those who were seen dancing were thought to be insane by those who could not hear the music

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I have as much mono BENEATH the float as the depth allows. BUT the float is mounted on the braid. Simply as mono is less conspiquos and easier to slide your shot about on but you want the float on the braid so that you have floating line immediately above the float for better contact/control and of course you get the float back if the hook link/mono below gets snagged and you have to pull for a break.

And thats my "non indicative opinion"!

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It probably depends on the types of waters you fish and size and species you expect. I'm fishing small streams for dace, smallish chub, the odd accidental trout, perhaps roach and perch, and the rod I use is very soft at the tip, so braid works very well. The surface currents are difficult too, mono used to get washed under the surface too easily making float control very difficult, braid floats like a cork.

 

Using 10lb PP in fast water with hooklengths down to 2lb, I haven't yet had the hooklength snap on a fish, even on angry 3lb+ brownies, which tend to go rather mental!

 

 

I see your point regarding the species your catching. Obviously catching 3lb+ trout on your set up works for you in the waters you fish, must be pretty snagg free.

Just curious Anderoo at the distances your actually trotting ? I mean if it's no more than 30yds I really can't see the dire need to have a bright floating braid to enable mending the line. Once you've trotted a glide two or three times you know where your line is even if you can't see it, even more so if your line is kept as tight as poss.

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Not very long distances Tigger, these little rivers are quite snaggy in places and bendy, with a lot of trees, so most trots are probably only 10-20 yards.

 

I did used to use mono (Drennan Floatfish) which was fine, but after trying braid I wouldn't change back, I just find float control so much easier.

And those who were seen dancing were thought to be insane by those who could not hear the music

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i only use home made hooklengths if i'm targeting barbel on the float ,otherwise i just use hooks-2-nylon from the shops .i've not had problems catching fish .although i beleave fish have excellent eye sight ,i think in moving water there focus is on the bait and they only have between 8-10sec as the bait comes into view to decide weather or not to sample it .on still waters its a different matter the fish can take there time ,give the bait (and line) a good look over before deciding to taste it too see if its food or not.

 

if i'm touch ledgering or trundling/rolling baits then i usually use either a sinking braid (still using the same old masons tiger braid) or a Fluorocarbon main/reel line.either direct or with a hook-2-nylon hooklength.

 

my main trotting braid is a light blue ,my feeder/ledgering braids are green Pp or the b/w mason's tiger braid ,i use the green 35lbs Pp on my barbel reels

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Chavender
I try to be funny... but sometimes I merely look it! hello.gif Steve

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especially if the fish has been caught before .if i'm fishing crystal clear waters and can see the fish shy away ,i have some small crystal chubba floats i can try .in moving water i don't think fish care about lines ,floats etc comming towards them in the most part ,but in clear water a float would be more noticable than the line holding it .line would have too be a really strong colour too stand out (red ,black etc) i think colours like green ,brown etc fit in better with the environment they live in so less noticable

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Chavender
I try to be funny... but sometimes I merely look it! hello.gif Steve

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It's unlikely a float floating downstream would frighten fish as there's lots of flotsom and jetsom contantly floating down both above and below the waters surface. The only time I think a float would spook fish is when it's cast out as it hits the waters surface as it could be a predator on the hunt.

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All,

 

Much like Tigger's comment on floats fish don't "see" line either. "Stringy" tihings are abundant (tree roots, stems, etc.). What they are aware of is a difference in pressure and wave action over an un-natural stretch of water. It is highly unlikely line matters when fish are feeding. I do think "better" fishermen do stuff (unrelated to type of line) that gives them an advantage over the "chuck and hope" crowd.

 

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