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CARP SNAPPED ROD HELP!


BURTON

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it was a diawa rod

 

maybe it was coz it was damaged i dunno had it a couple of years so cant tk it back now. do you think the length of the rod mite be the problem? would using a 9ft rod or even a 10ft be better.

also does it work the higher the test curve the more chance i have of keeping thm out the reeds.

 

nah length of rod is imaterial really, i have been using a fox bansai for my floater work and thats only 6ft in length :D

 

the rod might be the cause if it was damaged, but in what way was it damaged? cracks and splinters or just general wear and tear?

 

also did you play the fish on a tight clutch? granted when fishing near to pads etc.. you shouldnt really let the fish get into the santuary of the snags, but sometimes you have no choice, the line will snap the hook will pull the rod will break!

 

15lb line straight through? blimey ;)

www.stoneyandfriends.co.uk

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also does it work the higher the test curve the more chance i have of keeping thm out the reeds.

 

 

No,

 

Test curve in carp rods is more about casting ability than anything else, if you are fishing in the margins in a weedy or snaggy area IMHO you are much better off with a lower test curve rod, but with a nice through action rather than a 3lb TC broom handle thats designed for casting 3-4oz leads 100 yards plus!

 

A rod with a nice through action will act as a huge shock absorber, for it's whole length, allowing you to put pressure on the fish knowing that the rod will absorb any sudden lunges or dives that could well snap the line using a stiffer rod

 

Something in the region of a 1.75-2lb TC through actioned rod would be ideal, some of the rods being sold as "stepped up avons" or "barbel" rods I think are ideal for this sort of carp fishing - I use a Harrison Chimera specialist rod, has a test curve of around 1lb 10oz, but bends right down to the butt

 

Mat

Mat

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Well answered Mat.

 

Chesh you just cant break a rod by pulling on it if the correct line strength is used.

 

With 15lb line its impossible to break the line by pulling with the rod.Max most people can pull on a rod holding it normally ie one hand on rod one on reel is around 11lb.

 

Even when using the most powerfull of beach casters you still cant break 15lb line without resorting to a direct pull.

 

One of the best bits of advice Ive ever heard regarding the use of a "light" carp rod and heavy (15lb)line to keep fish out of snags etc "hit and hold" style is before starting to fish attach the end of your line to an imoveable object and pull on it to your hearts content! It will then give you a "feel" of the extreme pressure you can put on your gear without it breaking.

 

If ever your line breaks you are doing something wrong.If your rod breaks (unless damaged) you are doing something very wrong!

And thats my "non indicative opinion"!

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If there was a fault in the rod it would generally only break in one place and ususally the break is very clean.

I would say the rod has had some hefty knocks damaging the carbon/glass.

RUDD

 

Different floats for different folks!

 

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rod has to be dodgy, i have a ron thompson match rod and caught a 10lb carp on it and it was bending double but never even worried me about it snapping

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A rough calculation used to be used to establish the maximum breaking strain line a rod could handle, to ensure that the line snapped before the rod did. From memory I believe this calculation is (5 x the rods test curve)+1. So for a 1.75lb t/c rod, the maximum line strength that could be relied upon to break before the rod is 9.75lb b/s.

 

This calculation would assume that the rod is used to play a fish in a normal manner. If the rod was pointed directly at the fish, there would obviously be no strain on the rod. If the rod was held behind the angler, with the line to the fish running parallel along the blank from tip to butt, the rod would snap under very little pressure.

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hey just been reading the replies thanks alot to everyone who has helped means alot. so do you all think 15lb line straight through near the snags is to heavy?

If you was fishing on the surface for carp up to 20lb+ tight near the reeds wot would be all of your approches? thanks again

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Has to be a defect (slight ding from a knock could do it) to make a carbon rod explode as yours did.

 

I've taken 25lb channel catfish in a large river at more than 4mph current and spooled with 50lb power pro line on a 1.75 T/C rod and while the rod did get a healthy bend, it certainly didn't break. Channel catfish give lots more of a fight than carp and while I might move up to 2.25 lb T/C for really large fish, I'd never consider one of those 3lb+ rods unless I needed to fish a 5oz lead at range.

" My choices in life were either to be a piano player in a whore house or a politician. And to tell the truth, there's hardly any difference!" - Harry Truman, 33rd US President

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it was a diawa rod

 

maybe it was coz it was damaged i dunno had it a couple of years so cant tk it back now. do you think the length of the rod mite be the problem? would using a 9ft rod or even a 10ft be better.

also does it work the higher the test curve the more chance i have of keeping thm out the reeds.

 

Get in touch with DAIWA then!! VERY good company and may well try and replace the rod?? They did with one of mine I snapped in a fence once!! It was several years old and no problem!!

 

Failing that I have some CHEAP carp rods (£10 up) It would actually cost more to post them!! £20 with tube and next day!!

 

But have a go, nothing to lose!!

Chris Goddard


It is to be observed that 'angling' is the name given to fishing by people who can't fish.

If GOD had NOT meant us to go fishing, WHY did he give us arms then??


(If you can't help out someone in need then don't bother my old Dad always said! My grandma put it a LITTLE more, well different! It's like peeing yourself in a black pair of pants she said! It gives you a LOVELY warm feeling but no-one really notices!))

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