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Fast vs slow tapers quiver tips


Kappa

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Rich as Ive always understood it its best to use fast taper carbon for "drop back" bites and slow taper glass for "pull around" bites but I see they now do both carbon and glass in both fast and slow so not entirely sure on that one! But would GUESS that faster taper in both are more stable (in both uses) and that slower taper tips (again in both materials) accentuate the bite?

 

Edited by Dick Dastardly

And thats my "non indicative opinion"!

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Would have thought that a softer or compound taper might have made the quarry "hang on" a bit longer , that said a 1" pull is a !" pull so amplifying or accentuating the bite would in my humble opinion be impossible , but hey I apparently do not know the complexity of the Palomar knot only having used it for about 40 years so ignore what I have said .

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I usualy use a carbon tip if fishing in flowing water when the current is a bit to powerfull for a glass tip. In slow flowing water or still water I prefer to use glass. I like to use as light a tip as I can.

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A one inch pull is a one inch pull on a taut inelastic string. Fishing lines are not inelastic and in a current they are not taut. On an elastic string (like nylon mono) a one inch pull is an increase in tension and/or a shallower bow.

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A one inch pull is a one inch pull on a taut inelastic string. Fishing lines are not inelastic and in a current they are not taut. On an elastic string (like nylon mono) a one inch pull is an increase in tension and/or a shallower bow.

Yes, so when using ledger or feeder in still or slow water and there is little wind, watching the meniscus where the line enters the water is the most sensitive indicator of all - assuming you are not sight fishing, ie you can't actually see the fish take the bait. Next most sensitive is watching the bow in the line. Setting the gear so there is a little slack in the bow can be more effective than tightening up to a quiver tip. The old-fashioned dough-bobbin at the rod tip is pretty sensitive also ( swing tips were an extension of this, but brought problems of their own)

 

Only when wind or current make the above methods inoperative (which is quite often) is there a need for the quivertip. If so, it makes sense to use one with the least resistance to a bite. ie the lightest and softest you can get away with, as Tigger says.

 

Personally, I only use quivertips if fishing two rods. Usually on rivers I use just one rod, and if so, I will touch-ledger - you can feel taps even before the bow in the line tightens.

Edited by Vagabond
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Would have thought that a softer or compound taper might have made the quarry "hang on" a bit longer ,

 

I believe that may be what they were getting at when they say "accentuate" the bite John? Or maybe in the same way that a spring tip "accentuates" the bite? Im not sure, but I am 100% that the faster recovery of a carbon tip is far better when set up for drop backs when river fishing. II say that as Ive fished that style on rivers for many years but have rarely fished a quiver tip on still water (where pull around bites are the norm) as on still water I still prefer a swing tip. I have ocaissionally used method feeder on a commercial type carp water and there I could see a slower taper glass tip having the "hang on" effect you mention.

Edited by Dick Dastardly

And thats my "non indicative opinion"!

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Point is that an inch movement of the bait does not necessarily translate to an inch movement at the other end. There may be a change in tension which will result in a change in the deflection of the tip, which will depend on the taper of the tip and how stiff the material it is made of is.

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