Vagabonds in Brazil Episode Four (the last)

[Vagabond]

Our final destination was a combined eco-lodge and research station on one of the tributaries of the Teles Pires. Their main emphasis was on plants, butterflies, and bird watching, and normally fishing is forbidden there, except for some piranha caught to provide soup – all other species were protected. However, I had exchanged a few e-mails with their research director, and obtained agreement that I could practice catch-photo-release and in return let them have a written report with copies of the photos.

 

Another chance to increase my species list!

 

The lodge was reached via two-hour car journey, followed by an hour’s boat trip. Comfortable accommodation, with resident spiders up in the roof that sent a constant supply of insect wings, legs and indigestible parts onto our beds. Kept the mossies down though.

 

The bird-watching in the adjacent rain-forest was superb, and within a day or so we had seen some real rain-forest rarities. These included several Pavonine Quetzals (glorious rich metallic colours), a Musician Wren, whose song is even more melodious than that of the nightingale, and a Cryptic Forest Falcon – a bird so recently discovered that it has not yet been allocated a scientific name.

 

Besides fish and birds there was other interesting wildlife – brilliant blue morpho butterflies were everywhere, we watched an armadillo at dawn one morning and later came across a tamandua – a sort of tree-climbing ant-eater. Close to the river we were halted in our tracks by a thirty-foot anaconda asleep on the trail. I hadn’t got my camera, but Norma filmed it on her video – during which time it gently lifted its head. There was no sign of the tell-tale bulge of its last meal – in fact all the body we could see was parallel-sided, so this huge snake might soon be looking for lunch. Therefore we decided we would NOT try to squeeze past. “They swallow capybara,” said Norma, “and I’m not much bigger”

 

We had been allocated a good bird guide, and after a day or so, we thought “We got Arara, our fishing guide on the Xingu, interested in birds – so why not take our bird guide fishing!” So Noam came fishing for the first time in his life – he caught some, too!

 

Jumah, who was responsible for the boats, was apparently also the appointed fish catcher when the kitchen required piranhas for making soup. Jumah spoke no English, and we had very little Portuguese, but I found Jumah and I could exchange information by sign and gesture more quickly than Noam could translate. I was soon to find that Jumah’s watercraft was excellent – it is amazing how much information on currents, underwater eddies and bottom topography can be conveyed by a few sweeping hand gestures.

 

We started out by trying to catch several small species, returning most of them after photos, but keeping a piranha or two for catfish bait. The first catfish we caught was a little one, but it made up in curiosity value what it lacked in size. Jumah called it a “chinelo” which is the name given to flip-flop sandals. Its English name is Duck-billed Catfish, and scientific name Sorubim lima .

 

Here are a couple of pics -

 

 

you can see the duck-bill of the upper jaw in the shot of the fish’s underside. Incidentally, should you ever handle strange catfish, take great care – they have nasty spines, and one of the guides mentioned that he had been badly injured by a “chinelo” catfish some years before.

 

We wanted bigger catfish for the record, so a bit of night-lining was resorted to. Here is the result. A decent-sized striped Sorubim.

 

In the water,

 

Brought aboard

 

Front shot showing whisker deployment.

 

Bottom fishing yielded three sorts of piranha – the black and gold-cheeked chaps we had already met on the Xingu, and a spotted job Jumah called “piranha catarina”. At first we thought this might be a new species for us, but after checking pictures on FishBase I think they were juvenile red-bellied piranha – I put a picture of one up in Episode Three.

 

We also caught piau – similar to those of the Xingu, but larger, and of a richer colour.

 

As a change from bottom fishing I tried trotting the stream as if after roach or grayling. It soon paid off. A roach-like fish took my cube of fat (lean meat just attracts piranhas) and fought just like a roach.

Boated it, and went to unhook it. No roach this – it had teeth that looked the business. “Matrinxa” said Jumah. Yep, just like the illustration I had seen.

 

We had met matrinxa on hotel menus, and noted it was twice the price of other fish – so obviously matrinxa are good to eat. However, we were on a catch-photo-release promise, so back it went.

 

Matrinxa - very chub-like, but note teeth and the adipose fin - and piranha-bitten tail!

 

The last day, we went back to where we had caught the chinelo. There were half-sunken trees beside the eddy – and I suddenly remembered something from my pre-trip reading.

 

I caught Jumah’s eye. “Trahira ?” I said, pointing underneath the sunken logs. Jumah’s face immediately lit up, and I knew I had struck gold.

 

Soon I had a fish bait trundling along deep beside the logs. A very positive pull from below, and, as Mr Crabtree used to say “A firm strike, and he’s on!”

 

This was a seriously angry fish, which bored deep, and moved away fast. When I stopped it, the fish turned, and ran upstream, under the boat. Passed the rod round the bows, and kept the pressure on. Still it kept boring deep, and making repeated runs. At last I gained some line, and saw the fish. It looked just like a ferox trout. At that point the fish changed tactics, and went in for a series of spectacular leaps.

 

At long last I got it to the boat, and lifted it in. What a fight it had put up! ….and they grow much bigger than this, so what if ?………

 

Trahira

 

Bait’s eye view of trahira.

 

Most anglers visit the Amazon for peacock bass (tucanare). My brief experience with trahira suggests that as a fighter, it leaves the tucanare standing. WHEN (not if) we go back, payara and trahira will be my main targets.

 

If my last day was made memorable by the trahira, Norma’s was highlighted by the sighting of a Sungrebe. After our several trips to Central and South America, this elusive creature had become her “target bird”. Widespread, but uncommon, the bird is very difficult to see, as it spends most of its time in dense bushes and vines that trail in the water. It is also extremely wary, and hides as soon as it sees or hears a boat. The logbook in the research centre’s library had recorded only two sightings in three months, so this was a find indeed.

 

Not only a good sighting, but on Norma’s video as well. A Sungrebe, running along a floating log, jumping off and flying a short distance, then into the water and swimming into a screen of overhanging vines. Magic.

Edited November 24, 2006 by Vagabond

[chappers]

once again brilliant glad you had a good trip

[Snatcher]

Thanks once again Norma and Dave for sharing that with us. One of the best angling reports I have ever read and great photos to match.

 

When and where is your next adventure to? need a rod carrier? If you need any more lures knocking up Dave I am your man

[Guest tigger]

Thanks once again Norma and Dave for sharing that with us. One of the best angling reports I have ever read and great photos to match.

 

When and where is your next adventure to? need a rod carrier? If you need any more lures knocking up Dave I am your man

 

 

 

 

Ditto !!!!

[Davy Holt]

Hiya,

 

great to see some more of my ex pets

 

I used to have 4 Sorubim lima around the size of the one you caught.. superb fish for an aquarium

 

As for the bigger one, I'm pretty certain it aint a Sorubim but in fact

PSEUDOPLATYSTOMA FASCIATUS aka the Tiger Shovelnosed cat as I also had two of them, the biggest measuring in at 24"

 

BTW the Red tails looked superb

[Ken Davison South Wales]

Great report Dave, really enjoyed it just a shame it is over. Is Norma going to post some bird pictures on the photo or general chat forums ?

 

I am sure they would be well recieved.

 

Thanks again

[Dick Dastardly]

Great stuff Vagabond sir,It shows that you had a great time.Ive really enjoyed reading about your trip and seeing the photographs.Its great that both you and Norma can combine your interests like this and especially in such an exotic location.

[Vagabond]

Hiya,

 

 

I used to have 4 Sorubim lima around the size of the one you caught.. superb fish for an aquarium

 

As for the bigger one, I'm pretty certain it aint a Sorubim but in fact

PSEUDOPLATYSTOMA FASCIATUS aka the Tiger Shovelnosed cat as I also had two of them, the biggest measuring in at 24"

 

 

Half-right Davy, The fish is Pseudoplatysoma fasciatum but the English name is Striped Sorubim, not Tiger Sorubim (which is Pseudoplatysoma tigrinum)

 

Sorubim and Shovelnose are two names used for the same group.

 

The most obvious difference is that Striped Sorubim have spots on the head, Tiger Sourubim do not. As you can see from my pic of the cat in the water, the fish has a spotty head. The stripes on the side are different in the two fish.

 

Have a look at this link which shows both fish, although the illustration of P. fasciatum is not very good,and they call it Barred Sorubim

 

You need to scroll the page well down.

 

http://www.fishbase.org/identification/spe...ns=&c_code=

Edited November 24, 2006 by Vagabond

[luckyjim]

Legendary.

 

Thanks Vagabond.

[captain cojones]

brilliant, brilliant photos excellent!