front or rear drag?

[barblesss]

Yes, to backwind when carp fishing is just laughable. If you backwinded at the speed a carp bolts off, you would end up with a big tangle and aching fingers! Of course, as the fish begins to tire, backwinding becomes functionable.

You could of course use 30 IB Braid under a stiff poker stick.. the Carp would probably end up with a damaged mouth and would just flap about on the surface under your rod tip, not much fun .. and that's if you got a take which I don't think you would with such thick line. I would argue you would be lucky to get a take and probably bolt the fish as soon as they saw your 'rope' in the water.

[The Diamond Geezer]

quote:

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Originally posted by barblesss:

quote:

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Originally posted by The Diamond Geezer:

quote:

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Originally posted by The Diamond Geezer:

Yup, I agree with PW .. get the best of both worlds with Centre-drag

!

 

More info here

 

DG

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I tried one of these Reels. Very akward to adjust the drag whilst fighting a fish. That photograp shows it all.. everything gets in the way, and you find yourself 'looking' for the drag adjustment... not pretty

.

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Odd :confused: I use one all the time with no probs It's a darn sight easier to adjust than a front-drag while you're playing a fish because you don't have to put your fingers in front of a rotating rotor, bail=arm and spool ... and it's got much more drag washer surface area than many read-drag reels

 

Still, each to their own

 

DG

[Guest sslatter]

Newt:

A backwinder would probably wind up with some very bruised fingers and a lost fish from slack when the handle got away.

Newt:

Yes, to backwind when carp fishing is just laughable. If you backwinded at the speed a carp bolts off, you would end up with a big tangle and aching fingers! Of course, as the fish begins to tire, backwinding becomes functionable.

IMO Nothing bolts as fast as a thicklip grey mullet when it "freaks out", except maybe a big bass on its first run. With just a little practice, it's easy to use the gears rather than a clutch. You don't end up with tangles, because even if you have to let go of the reel handle with one hand, you can still control the run with the forefinger of the hand that is holding the rod, by lifting it to touch the underside of the spinning spool (fixed spool reel). Or you can use your "free" hand. Using a centrepin is just as easy, except you use your thumb. Once you get it right, (and it doesn't take long)you won't end up with bruised fingers or birds' nests. And you'll "feel" the fish and its fight far more acutely than if you just haul it on the clutch. Try it. You might like it.

[peter mccue]

quote:

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Yes, to backwind when carp fishing is just laughable. If you backwinded at the speed a carp bolts off, you would end up with a big tangle and aching fingers!

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To backwind when a Carp bolts from being hooked is not just laughable Barbless, it's almost an impossibility! Allow me to explain how you do it.

 

Most anglers use a reel with a baitrunner facility when Carping, that first blistering run is controlled by finger pressure on the spool, with which you will be surprised at just how much force you can exert on a Carp. When that first run is over you disengage the baitrunner & play the fish via backwinding, If the Carp gets a second wind & goes on another hell for leather run you leave go of the handle & exert finger pressure again, this time on the flyer.

 

The beauty of backwinding is that the control mechanism is YOU therefore if you feel the hook has slipped during the fight or you feel any other variable has crept into the situation, it can be dealt with instantly.

 

I do use a light clutch occasionally but for the majority of Carping backwinding gives me greater control.

 

Seems complicated now I've read it back but to be honest I do it almost instinctively.

[barblesss]

Peter, yes it is impossible IMHO. I think to control the initial run by a Carp using Backwinding is ridiculous. I have tried it and you are guessing as to how fast the carp is running and wether it is slowing, speeding up etc. That's why I woudn't recommend it .. too much guess work.

If you are fishing any water where there are the usual snags a good smooth drag is very important ... it is the no.1 priority in my opinion.

[Newt]

barblesss:

... You could of course use 30 IB Braid under a stiff poker stick.. the Carp would probably end up with a damaged mouth and would just flap about on the surface under your rod tip, not much fun .. and that's if you got a take which I don't think you would with such thick line. I would argue you would be lucky to get a take and probably bolt the fish as soon as they saw your 'rope' in the water.

I use a limber tip rod but do use a fairly heavy b/s braid.

 

But rope? PowerPro in pretty small for a given b/s.

 

[The Diamond Geezer]

quote:

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Originally posted by barblesss:

.... To be honest, if your using a rear drag and you set the drag exactly correct (just under line snap), you would loose a carp on it's first surge if you were fishing close in.

 

Get hold of your reel, set the drag proper, then yank the line as hard as you can... it will snap because your drag cannot handle the torque.

 

Even front drag anglers set their drags at 23 of line snap. So I would disagree when you say "there really isn't a need for any adjusting if it's set correctly" especially if you hook an active 20IB'er under a stiff carp rod tip.

Best regards.

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I'm bemused about all this.... and "line snap" is a new phrase (for me), and I think that the method you describe is not the correct way to set any drag. I would also question how you or anyone knows that their drag is set at "just under" or "2/3" of "line snap" :confused:

 

If you're carping, and using a 2.5 lb TC rod, for example, do you know what 2.5 lb TC means, and if yes, how do you set your drag and what angle is the top section reaching while you're doing this

 

Backwinders are surely from another planet; why do they think reels have drags then

 

Give me a break

 

DG

[peter mccue]

quote:

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Backwinders are surely from another planet; why do they think reels have drags then

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To give anglers another excuse for losing fish

 

Beam me up Scotty

[barblesss]

You would obviously not set your drag by yanking at the line. This was just an experiment to show how poor drags can get stuck, and the result being line snap. And this is why you should set the drag lower (if you have a crap drag), then tighten it once the drag has kicked in.

If you have balanced tackle, I've always set the drag using only the Reel. (No Rod involved) You know when the lines about to snap as it will stop stretching and you can feel it. If it snaps, lower the drag.

The rod stops bendingabsorbing at some point, then the drag will come into play.

To be honest with you, I don't even set the drag exact now... maybe because I'm lazy. I just let the fish run when I know it's safe, and tighten the drag (slowly in increments) when I need to slow it down. Not recommended, but it's fun .

[The Diamond Geezer]

quote:

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Originally posted by barblesss:

...... I've always set the drag using only the Reel. (No Rod involved) You know when the lines about to snap as it will stop stretching and you can feel it.

If it snaps, lower the drag.

.......

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Yeah, Right!

 

Exerting force at Point B

is absolutely NOT the way to set your drag

 

The drag should always be set by exerting force at Point A

thus reproducing the force on the rod and the reel and its drag

 

DG

 

P.S.

quote:

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Originally posted by barblesss:

...... You know when the lines about to snap as it will stop

stretching

and you can feel it.....

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Obviously still a nylon-mono-man who perhaps has yet to discover braid

 

[ 20. July 2003, 10:27 PM: Message edited by: The Diamond Geezer ]