Restoring A Split Cane Rod

[Krazey Dave]

Thanks for all the advice guys, after reading what you have said and some careful thinking ive stripped off all the tacky stuff and started again using an almost neat varnish solution applied with my fingers. It looked better immediately I'm glad to say. I'll let you all know how the drying goes later and when everything is finnished I'll post pictures of the finnished rod.Bear in mind that this whole process has been a learning experience for me, from stripping to whipping to the varnish.I have never attempted anything like it in the past so will admit that some of my whippings look somewhat untidy compared to the almost perfectly identical whippings that were originally on the rod, however it was never my intention to have a stunningingly beautiful work of art for gazing at but a functional rod that I could use without fear of guides dropping off while playing a fish(as 2 already had).

Thanks again

Edited October 6, 2008 by Krazey Dave

[chesters1]

good whipping needs patience and a bit of practice ,not so bad whipping with nylon but silk is beyond my eyesight now.

you can motorise it using a battery powered spit turner turning the rod which is pretty much the same way as they were done in factories (on real machines ofcourse) the angle of the rod and silk spool made sure the silk didn't run over the turn before.

i used to do all mine but then in the 60's and before most people did! it got you through the close season without going mad

[Dunk Fairley]

Sounds like the thinners wasn't correct for the varnish to me, still at least you've got it sorted now. Good man on rebuilding your first cane rod, it's a bit addictive though, so be prepared!

[Krazey Dave]

The thinners I used was the one reccomended on the tin of varnish so it must have been a mistake I made. First coat has now dried and looks a lot better than my original efforts. A question before I go any further, some articles Ive found on the internet reccomend sanding between coats, but dont mention what grade paper to use or give any idea as to the extent of sanding.Would I be right in thinking the finer the paper the better? I've not done anything requiring the use of sandpaper or varnish since leaving school over 20 years ago, so my knowledge is so scant you could use a postage stamp as writing paper and have space left over lol

Edited October 6, 2008 by Krazey Dave

[Dick Dastardly]

The only time I use/have used varnish for the blank itself for years is when restoring rods.Yes I know a woodworker will tell you to rub down in between coats but its not always necessary.

 

As Chesters says several thin coats are better than one thick one but in a lot of cases with polyurathene varnishs one thin coat is enough any way.

 

If I rub down between coats (normally on cane rods) I use car body work wet and dry type papers of varying grades but in general 1500 at the finest and 1200 at the coarsest! Both very fine in other words. Two reasons,first is that you are only "keying" the surface and secondly the coat(s) should be that thin that any coarser grade will go straight through! Runs/blemmishs etc I prefer to remove with a blade the sand with the fine paper. In all fairness though if you apply a thin enough coat with your finger you cant really get runs. One big thing Ive found is that when applying even the thinnest of coats you need to wait several days for the varnish to harden as well as dry before you can sand it.As most restoration type projects are not urgent I prefer to leave the rod several weeks before sanding/recoating.

[Vagabond]

i'v always used my finger ,gives a very fine layer with no brush marks or runs ,several very thin coats are far better then few thick ones and using this method several coats in a day is easily done as it dries very fast.i always have used humbrol clear varnish

 

i did try "yaught" varnish but found it unsatisfactory

 

Very good advice - Humbrol clear or matt is fine, or a genuine marine varnish. I prefer matt, as rod flash is something I avoid, as it may startle fish when fishing under the rod tip.

 

I have a stack of split-bamboo rods, and each one gets refurbished (new whippings and varnish, plus new rings if they are grooved) about every fifteen years or so - my Mk4, which I built myself in the late 1950s, will be coming up for its fourth refurbishment soon!

 

BTW "Yacht" varnish should be avoided at all costs - it is certainly not marine quality, in fact it isn't even waterproof.

 

.....sanding between coats, but dont mention what grade paper to use .Would I be right in thinking the finer the paper the better?

Absolutely, and only enough sanding to get a smooth matt surface

[Worms]

Posted on behalf of Krazey Dave. Please add all replies to this thread:

I've restored dozens of cane rods and I use the following approach:

1. apply cellulose dope to new or dry whipping, let dry for 6hrs (seems dry after 20mins but give it time)

2. Use good quality yacht varnish thinly applied to whipping. Usually takes 3-4 coats and 12-24 hrs between coats.

3. varnish complete rod including whipping, allow to dry for 48 hrs before subsequent coats (if necessary) and a week before fishing at least.

 

Rotating the rod sections for the first couple of hours of drying will prevent runs and sags. Yacht varnish never seems to really harden and slight imperfections can be polished out after a month (just a fine dry cloth but rub fast to warm the varnish up).

 

The final result will last for years and looks superb. I have never suffered flaking from yacht varnish (unlike modern quick drying "front door" varnishes) and the extra time taken to apply it is worth the hassle.

 

I rarely thin yacht varnish as it extends drying time exponentially!

 

I use International yacht varnish, a £5.99 tin will seal about 10 11@ rods!

[Hellgrammite]

i'v always used my finger ,gives a very fine layer with no brush marks or runs ,several very thin coats are far better then few thick ones and using this method several coats in a day is easily done as it dries very fast.i always have used humbrol clear varnish since the 70's before that it was japlac (sp?) its also far easier to remove it when you get chips ,these modern "varnishes" are a devil to remove from whippings never mind the rod itself!

i did try "yaught" varnish but found it unsatisfactory and wasnt actually clear but slightly coloured.might help if i could spell yaught (sp?) ,no need to thin humbrol use it straight out of the tin.

 

Please I wonder If you have any suggestions for removing the varnish inc from the whippings on an old 7' built cane spinning Rod, where somebody has had a go and varnished over the top of the existing varnish which has made it look horrible, there are lots of small whippings up the length of the Rod.

 

Thank you Bryan

[Worms]

Please I wonder If you have any suggestions for removing the varnish inc from the whippings on an old 7' built cane spinning Rod, where somebody has had a go and varnished over the top of the existing varnish which has made it look horrible, there are lots of small whippings up the length of the Rod.

 

Thank you Bryan

Unfortunately if it is varnish then not much chance. I wouldn't contemplate using paint stripper of any kind as this could damage the glue holding the cane strips together.

 

If it's all horribly like molten toffee i.e. a dark brown colour then try rubbing the rod with a rag dipped in methylated spirit.. If it goes sticky immediately on application you are in luck........well, sort of, it is probably coated with shellac/French polish. This can be removed with careful application of meths but it takes ages. It would probably be quicker to re-whip the whole rod.

 

If not the ebove but just horrible varnish you could try gently sanding with a coarse (400 grade) wet and dry paper, but go very slowly.

 

Good luck

[Dick Dastardly]

Yes an absolute nightmare! I too would just remove all the whippings and start again.A sharp knife ran along the ring foot is good and the same (with much care!!) on the intermediate whippings.

 

I hope the actual "blank" isnt coated with the stuff as well as this would be a massive job to remove.