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The problem with the mechanical hook tyers is that when you tighten the knot the line that you pull through to tighten the knot up becomes the last few inches of your hook-link.

If you tie them by hand - I think it's just called a whipping knot - the loose line all gets pulled through and cut off.

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Sorry Ajay, I don't quite follow you on that one??

 

When you've tightened up the knot - you then release the hook from the jaws of the tyer, then pull the line (which is your hook length) till the loop of line on the on the pin of the tyer is pulled through to complete the knot.

You don't cut the hook length to length until you've tied the hook!! The line is still on the spool till you've tied it!!! (if that's where you're coming from?)

Edited by Martin56

Fishin' - "Best Fun Ya' can 'ave wi' Ya' Clothes On"!!

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Great little tool the matchman. I use it for 20's with a 1lb hook length. Can tie one in seconds.

 

I use the Matchman tyer and grip the line between my knees. I do most of mine on the bank, and haven't got the space for large gizmos

i do mines on the bank too, though i setup my rod and float first then tie on my hook length and the hook last using the rod tip to tension the line so i can use the matchman rather than the spool between my knees, i found the latter harder.

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Great little tool the matchman. I use it for 20's with a 1lb hook length. Can tie one in seconds.

 

 

i do mines on the bank too, though i setup my rod and float first then tie on my hook length and the hook last using the rod tip to tension the line so i can use the matchman rather than the spool between my knees, i found the latter harder.

One thing I've always struggled with a bit when tying my own is maintaining an accurate length, what with the allowance for the end loop!! (They were all somewhere near but only within an inch or 2)

 

Ready Tied are always the same length throughout the packet, negating the need to re-plumb when changed - critical in some circumstances, and not disturbing the swim again with the splash of the plummet.

 

Maybe I could have used some kind of length gauge like a piece of small section/square wood or 1/2 beading to give more consistency??

 

That said - at the time I was tying my own all the time - I was exclusively on Rivers where the depth variation can be vast even in the same swim. Although it's good to know the depth by plumbing - there's always the need to vary it to find the fish.

 

These days I'm exclusively Commercial Match Lakes, with the pole most of the time where there's not all that much variation in depth, the same rules DO NOT apply - the fish are very often up in the water.

Edited by Martin56
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Fishin' - "Best Fun Ya' can 'ave wi' Ya' Clothes On"!!

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The problem with the mechanical hook tyers is that when you tighten the knot the line that you pull through to tighten the knot up becomes the last few inches of your hook-link.

If you tie them by hand - I think it's just called a whipping knot - the loose line all gets pulled through and cut off.

............................................................................................

 

Sorry Ajay, I don't quite follow you on that one??

 

When you've tightened up the knot - you then release the hook from the jaws of the tyer, then pull the line (which is your hook length) till the loop of line on the on the pin of the tyer is pulled through to complete the knot.

You don't cut the hook length to length until you've tied the hook!! The line is still on the spool till you've tied it!!! (if that's where you're coming from?)

 

When using mono, one thing to be avoided is creating heat/friction when tightening knots.

 

When you have finished tying a knot with a mechanical hook tier, the last few inches of line that lead up to the hook have been pulled through the knot when you tighten it.

 

If you tie a spade end knot by hand, the knot is tightened from the the opposite direction and any line pulled through the knot is then cut off.

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When you have finished tying a knot with a mechanical hook tier, the last few inches of line that lead up to the hook have been pulled through the knot when you tighten it.

 

That's true Ajay but I think it's the same for other knots which are tied without a hooktyer. I use the palomar and grinner with eyed hooks and tighten both by pulling the mainline through. Another good reason to learn spade end knots manually perhaps. I will get there either with or without a machine, presentation is much better with spade end hooks, I've tried Drennan pre-tied but find the hooklengths are nowhere near the stated BS.


It's never a 'six', let's put it back

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When using mono, one thing to be avoided is creating heat/friction when tightening knots.

 

When you have finished tying a knot with a mechanical hook tier, the last few inches of line that lead up to the hook have been pulled through the knot when you tighten it.

 

If you tie a spade end knot by hand, the knot is tightened from the the opposite direction and any line pulled through the knot is then cut off.

i s

dont tighten up the knot fully tight for that reason. Once ive pulled the tag end through i then use the tag end to get it all nice and tight too.

Edited by Andy_1984
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i s

dont tighten up the knot fully tight for that reason. Once ive pulled the tag end through i then use the tag end to get it all nice and tight too.

Using plenty of saliva to moisten the line before you pull the line through of course.

 

Keith

Edited by BoldBear
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Happiness is Fish shaped (it used to be woman shaped but the wife is getting on a bit now)

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I learnt to tie them by hand when I was a kid, so when I tried to learn to use a machine, I found it impossibly fiddly compared to just doing it the way I'd always done it!

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That's true Ajay but I think it's the same for other knots which are tied without a hooktyer. I use the palomar and grinner with eyed hooks and tighten both by pulling the mainline through. Another good reason to learn spade end knots manually perhaps. I will get there either with or without a machine, presentation is much better with spade end hooks, I've tried Drennan pre-tied but find the hooklengths are nowhere near the stated BS.

 

I do at least 90% of my fishing with eyed hooks - tied with a Palomar knot, but, with 6 or 8lb line there is far more margin for error when tying hooks than there is with a 2lb b/s. (or less) hooklength.

 

I suffer very few breakages because I'm just a little bit anal about line and knots - and I've never been in a position to say (it almost sounds boastful sometimes) "got smashed up six times today".

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