Jump to content

Jem

Members
  • Posts

    194
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Jem

  1. well your in the fishsim forum
  2. more than a handfull is no good to anyone good job i've got big hands
  3. I use firefox 8.0 without any probs what so ever the new 9.0 vers is out, but it as a couple of probs which they are working on so i havent installed 9.0 yet, so i'd say upgrade to 8.0 or wait for 9.0 to be sorted and upgrade to that vers
  4. speed fittings will be ok, i assume your using the hep type piping with push fittings. Or if your using a pumped shower from the tanks (both Hot & Cold) the pumps comes with push fit fittings anyway so you'll be ok
  5. try cleaning the nozzles, as these may have been blocked by bits of rubbish in the bottom of the tank when you run out, you'll have dragged these into the system, failing that you could try a wee bit of air pressure to force the oil round without lighting it that is, as it may be air locked somewhere if the feed pipe is uneven
  6. you might be best of buying at somewhere like argos, personally i would never buy from ebay (try reading the comments left,there are a few bad ones)or from abroad for that matter (unless it was from a reputable dealer) as for the camera if its as described its a good camera,plenty of scope with it:) buying it is entirely up to you, but beware as they do seem to be to good for the price
  7. You could try DC++ which is what i use without any probs, the good thing about this prog is if you dont share you dont get into any hubs to d/l anything
  8. more than likely be 12v dc,red live, black negative, a word of warning though, set it at a low ampage as to many amps will damage it
  9. Or you could do what i've done and dropped I.E all together and gone to Mozilla Firefox, which imho is one of the best browsers out there, specially with the ext's or addins that you want added in to it, Its available here http://texturizer.net/firefox/ if anyone wants to grab it and try it
  10. You could possibly try a boat yard, one of the ones that do a lot of fibre glass hulls, they might be able to help out with making one if you do all the designing maybe worth asking or you could go the concrete way but its labour intensive during the laying of it and forming the sides and what have you , my first option would be what i would do as theres no harm in asking them
  11. this might sound a wee bit daft but is there anyway you can set up your pc's using the NIC route ( network interface card ) or more commonly know as ethernet as in my experience of any internet connection via usb causes no end of probs You might find it will or should be easier using the ethernet route as the protocols are rather easier to set up
  12. if you take it out, there'll be a number on it but most common ones are CR2032 button cells, 3v
  13. my post was advising you to change the cmos batt
  14. maybe it is on its way out, but for about 2.50 to 3.50 each rather cheap to rule that prob out. but it is more than likely the cmos batt anyway [ 25. April 2004, 02:50 PM: Message edited by: Jem ]
  15. Your cables will make no diff to the speed of the transfer rate via usb, all your peripherals will run at USB1 (unless there are USB2 enabled) speed even the USB hub. My setup uses USB2 and the majority of my peripherals are USB1 including a USB hub and everything works ok, so you'll be fine
  16. quote: Originally posted by simonford: Now you start increasing the FSB (really you are increasing the mobo's clock, which takes all the frequencies (-AGP,PCI,RAM-higher), keeping the same low multiplier. The purpose is to get the best FSB stable, no matter what speed the CPU is. To gain stability at high speeds you must add more voltage to the CPU and to the RAM, sometimes even to the AGP slot, but usually you don't need that. This is a very tricky thing, because voltage brings stability, but also heat, and heat is bad for stability. With a good cooling setup you can take out all the extra heat , try to keep you CPU under 50 C if you can, and never let it go over 60C . Plus ensure that you dont alter the AGP or PCI bus or voltage settings as this can play havoc with any cards that are in the slots, if you can your best of with a m/b that locks these so they cant be altered easily, the abit range of newer m/b's have these locked, not certain about other makes without researching them further:D
  17. This might sound daft, but how did you set up the cpu in the bios? the reason i'm asking is the fact this can be a major prob with peeps setting them up wrong and hence the heat up probs, i have an xp barton 2500, which is overclocked and running at nr xp barton 3200 speeds and my idle temp is only 42 and when pushed reaches a max temp of 48, heres a list of what they should be running at = Athlon XP 3200+ 2.20GHz 200MHz 11x Barton (L2 512KB) Athlon XP 3000+ 2.10GHz 200MHz 10.5x Barton (L2 512KB) Athlon XP 3000+ 2.16GHz 166MHz 13x Barton (L2 512KB) Athlon XP 2800+ 2.08GHz 166MHz 12.5x Barton (L2 512KB) Athlon XP 2800+ 2.25GHz 333MHz 13.5x 0.13 Thoroughbred B Athlon XP 2700+ 2.17GHz 333MHz 13x 0.13 Thoroughbred B Athlon XP 2600+ 1.91GHz 166MHz 11.5x Barton (L2 512KB) Athlon XP 2600+ 2.083GHz 166MHz 12.5x Thoroughbred B Athlon XP 2600+ 2.133GHz 133MHz 16x Thoroughbred B Athlon XP 2400+ 2.GHz 266MHz 15x 0.13 Thoroughbred B Athlon XP 2500+ 1.83GHz 166MHz 11x Barton (L2 512KB) Athlon XP 2200+ 1.8GHz 266MHz 13.5x 0.13 Thoroughbred A Athlon XP 2100+ 1.73GHz 266MHz 13x 0.18 Palomino Athlon XP 2000+ 1.67GHz 266MHz 0.18 Palomino Athlon XP 1900+ 1.6GHz 266MHz 0.18 Palomino Athlon XP 1800+ 1.53GHz 266MHz 0.18 Palomino Athlon XP 1700+ 1.47GHz 266MHz 0.18 Palomino Athlon XP 1600+ 1.4GHz 266MHz 0.18 Palomino Athlon XP 1500+ 1.33GHz 266MHz 0.18 Palomino if you need any help further LMK [ 24. March 2004, 05:39 PM: Message edited by: Jem ]
  18. You could use a file splitter so you can use a floppy then put it back together on the other pc and install the driver that way
  19. you can get all the drivers you need from here http://www.gigabyte.com.tw/MotherBoard/Pro...cts_GA-6WMM.htm this is the manufacturers web page
  20. Usually the drivers supplied by what ever O/S youve installed are fine. But if your wanting the correct drivers for the onboard stuff, look at the M/B usually around or very nr the pci slots and it will either have the name of the company with the model no or just the model number or if you have the manual for it post the name and i'll point you in the right direction
  21. PSP8 isnt a game its a graphics program you need a graphic program to edit the pic that fishsim uses to display the angler on screen. All you need do is browse the fishsim folder and find the man file, copy this by right clicking it and select copy ,then open your graphic program, go to edit, under this section select option paste as new image and edit to your hearts content
  22. Easy to do mate all you need is something like PSP8 or similar and away you go, i've done a few of them for other peeps
  23. All you need is crossover patch cable just pop into the nrest pc shop and ask for that and you wont go far wrong:) as all patch cables come with RJ45's on them anyways.
  24. You could try this program Mozilla FireFox, available to download here http://texturizer.net/firefox/ its a lot better than I.E and its the best popup stopper as well as being a replacement for the dreaded I.E that comes with MS I've been using it a while now ands can honestly say that it is excellent at stopping popups of all types, the only draw back is you have to use I.E to updates windows Once you get it all set up and running how you want it to, i can bet you wont go back to I.E
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We and our partners use cookies on our website to give you the most relevant experience by remembering your preferences, repeat visits and to show you personalised advertisements. By clicking “I Agree”, you consent to the use of ALL the cookies. However, you may visit Cookie Settings to provide a controlled consent.