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Another new reel project

Worms

By Worms
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Worms Member

Worms

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Well, finished work early and I thought I'd sort some tackle out for a sea trip next week as I'll be busy then.

 

I toddled into the workshop and the draw of the lathe overcame my baser instincts. I ended up making a couple of thin-wall phosphor bronze bushes to make a Shimano spur gear with a bore of 7mm fit a 1/4" 316 stainless shaft. I'm trying to make all fittings imperial as that is how my workshop is equipped. I have had to buy one metric bearing but, sacrifices have to be made!

 

I made two bushes a press fit in the gear (the little one that sits on the spool shaft and engages with the drag plate) and then line-reamed them. The original setup meant that the gear sat on a 7mm shaft. As well as wanting to be as imperial as possible, this gave me the chance to use a quality bearing material for the bush. Two bushes means you can leave a gap between them that acts as a reservoir for oil!

 

Spurgearbushes.jpg

 

The HE30 alloy is here, the smaller diameter piece (3") is for the spool. The other, for the frame. This has already been rough-turned down from 4 1/4" to 3 5/8".

 

TwobigblocksofHE30.jpg

 

I have also rough-bored the centre out as well!

 

Roughturnedframe.jpg

Eating wild caught fish is good for my health, reduces food miles and keeps me fit trying to catch them........it's my choice to do it, not yours to stop me!

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Dick Dastardly Member

Dick Dastardly

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In theory yes but the line guide will still be engaged with the level wind shaft and will still operate the shaft 'in reverse' and cause drag. With decent bearings and well cut gears the drive of the shaft shouldn't really be a problem once the spool is spinning fast. It's the action of the line guide on the worm gear of the shaft that causes the most drag (in my opinion)!

 

Recently Ive added a level wind bearing upgrade to the list of modifications I do on ABU reels they certainly (much to my surprise!) make a difference, If youve not seen them they are basically a bearing that fits in the end of the level wind "tube" (replacing the nylon bush) that the worm gear then rides in.

 

When I have time Nick I will try and do a rough sketch of the idea/principle I have for disengaging the level wind drive gear if your interested in giving me your views on feasibility.Maybe it will simply not be possible though and that then explains why no one has ever introduced such!

 

Did you ever see the reels that had a level wind line carriage that "split" in two for casting then closed back together for retrieve? cant remember the details but as they were on a lower quality reel I never tried one.

And thats my "non indicative opinion"!

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Worms Member

Worms

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Recently Ive added a level wind bearing upgrade to the list of modifications I do on ABU reels they certainly (much to my surprise!) make a difference, If youve not seen them they are basically a bearing that fits in the end of the level wind "tube" (replacing the nylon bush) that the worm gear then rides in.

 

When I have time Nick I will try and do a rough sketch of the idea/principle I have for disengaging the level wind drive gear if your interested in giving me your views on feasibility.Maybe it will simply not be possible though and that then explains why no one has ever introduced such!

 

Did you ever see the reels that had a level wind line carriage that "split" in two for casting then closed back together for retrieve? cant remember the details but as they were on a lower quality reel I never tried one.

No, can't say I saw the splitting one but bear with me I seem to recall an Olympic design that was 'non-captive'.

 

Just had a quote for the bearings I want to use..........£240.......each!!!

 

Back to the drawing board :rolleyes:

Eating wild caught fish is good for my health, reduces food miles and keeps me fit trying to catch them........it's my choice to do it, not yours to stop me!

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Worms Member

Worms

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No, can't say I saw the splitting one but bear with me I seem to recall an Olympic design that was 'non-captive'.

 

Just had a quote for the bearings I want to use..........£240.......each!!!

 

Back to the drawing board :rolleyes:

Eek! plus tax and carriage £283 each :headhurt:

 

Anyone prepared to pay a grand for a boat multiplier?..............it will be better than the rest though.....I hope!

Edited by Worms

Eating wild caught fish is good for my health, reduces food miles and keeps me fit trying to catch them........it's my choice to do it, not yours to stop me!

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Worms Member

Worms

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Still working on the 'special' bearings but here's a quick update so far! (The bearings, gears, ratchet wheel and drag disc are all bought in components)

 

As you can see, the spool is taking shape but I have to wait until my 'special' bearings are decided upon before I can finish it.

 

God that HE30 alloy is lovely stuff to turn, I'm getting a 'finish' cut on rough turning!

 

Multiplierbits.jpg

Eating wild caught fish is good for my health, reduces food miles and keeps me fit trying to catch them........it's my choice to do it, not yours to stop me!

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watatoad Member

watatoad

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You have probably answered this question before but...

 

What lathe do you use?

 

EDIT:

The reason is I am about to re-equip my workshop, my old lathe has done me well but I would like to replace some of my older machines with newer ones.

I am not an engineer just a tinkerer.

END EDIT:

Edited by watatoad

From a spark a fire will flare up

English by birth, Cockney by the Grace of God

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Worms Member

Worms

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You have probably answered this question before but...

 

What lathe do you use?

 

EDIT:

The reason is I am about to re-equip my workshop, my old lathe has done me well but I would like to replace some of my older machines with newer ones.

I am not an engineer just a tinkerer.

END EDIT:

An early 50's Boxford Model 'A' rear-drive with quick-change gearbox and screw-cutting ability (metric and imperial changewheels), with powered saddle and cross-slide. I bought it 'cheap' for £500. I stripped it, repainted it and rebuilt it. It only needed a new cross-slide screw and nut and some fettling of the gib strips and (most important of all) setting up with an engineer's toolroom level after bolting it to a new, specially prepared concrete floor. I also fitted a new 3 phase motor and wired it through an Omron inverter which gives me infinitely variable speed control, overall speed control via frequency adjustment, forward/reverse etc. etc.

 

In my opinion, restoring an old, smaller 'toolroom' lathe will give you much better value for money than buying a new one!

Eating wild caught fish is good for my health, reduces food miles and keeps me fit trying to catch them........it's my choice to do it, not yours to stop me!

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Rusty Member

Rusty

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I lost the plot just after this

 

An early 50's.......

And picked it up again here :)

 

In my opinion, restoring an old, smaller 'toolroom' lathe will give you much better value for money than buying a new one!

It's never a 'six', let's put it back

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poledark Member

poledark

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Worms, do you have any trouble with stress with the HE30? When I was making spools for multis I used to have an awful job getting them to run true. I would machine them in one setting, and they would run dead true....until the next day when they always seemed to have developed a "wobble". Only a few thou, but very annoying.

 

A toolmaker friend sugested leaving them in the chuck overnight and then taking the final skim. Seemed to work :)

 

Den

"When through the woods and forest glades I wanderAnd hear the birds sing sweetly in the trees;When I look down from lofty mountain grandeur,And hear the brook, and feel the breeze;and see the waves crash on the shore,Then sings my soul..................

for all you Spodders. https://youtu.be/XYxsY-FbSic

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