bloody crazy

[chesters1]

I dont know if you have boilers like we do??

Its pretty small wall mounted. No pilot flame even. When you open a tap the water goes through it and a flame lights, then the burners. When you shut the tap it all shuts down. you only burn the gas when the tap is running and there is no stored hot water. Cheap.

 

seen ascots from long ago and our camper had one similar but far smaller.

you could hear the pilot light from the bedroom in our old boiler ,this ones modern but i think far from totally efficient if it was efficient it wouldn't send heat up the chimney IMHO

[captain cojones]

seen ascots from long ago and our camper had one similar but far smaller.

you could hear the pilot light from the bedroom in our old boiler ,this ones modern but i think far from totally efficient if it was efficient it wouldn't send heat up the chimney IMHO

 

These are super efficient, the best made by Junkers. (german) easy to fit and cheap to run. All have carbon monoxide detectors fitted.

Run from Butane bottles.

[Chris Goddard]

What you NEED is a "Pressure Reducing Valve" This REDUCES the pressure at the point if delivery as opposed to reducing the FLOW at point of delivery. You are STILL getting the same pressure you see so that is what you need to reduce the pressure! NOT stop taps turned down a bit!!

[barry luxton]

What you NEED is a "Pressure Reducing Valve" This REDUCES the pressure at the point if delivery as opposed to reducing the FLOW at point of delivery. You are STILL getting the same pressure you see so that is what you need to reduce the pressure! NOT stop taps turned down a bit!!

 

is that the one with a pressure dial and fit it on the in coming water main, it is also adjustible to whatever pressure suits.

[poledark]

Yes Barry, I have one fitted. Pressure so high here it almost blows the top off the tap

 

Den

[corydoras]

seen ascots from long ago and our camper had one similar but far smaller.

you could hear the pilot light from the bedroom in our old boiler ,this ones modern but i think far from totally efficient if it was efficient it wouldn't send heat up the chimney IMHO

There's a project for you then. Get down into your garden shed and invent a 100% thermally efficient boiler. You'll make a fortune and win a Nobel Prize for Physics to boot.

[corydoras]

What you NEED is a "Pressure Reducing Valve" This REDUCES the pressure at the point if delivery as opposed to reducing the FLOW at point of delivery. You are STILL getting the same pressure you see so that is what you need to reduce the pressure! NOT stop taps turned down a bit!!

PRVs are an absolute necessity in France, unless you want all your copper piping splitting the first time you turn on the mains stop-cock ,aren't they Chris. I've met one or two who learned that lesson the hard way.

[chesters1]

There's a project for you then. Get down into your garden shed and invent a 100% thermally efficient boiler. You'll make a fortune and win a Nobel Prize for Physics to boot.

 

even having a copper spiral in the chimney would extract more heat from the system if it was attached to the cold feed ,any heat loss is bad design ,the vapour you see is bad design.

 

no chance of a pressure regulator we're council ,forgot the internal main cock is open just a crack as well ,the pumping station is 200 yards away

 

"These are super efficient, the best made by Junkers. (german) easy to fit and cheap to run. All have carbon monoxide detectors fitted.

Run from Butane bottles."

 

using the name butane and bottle quickly reduces the "efficient" bit especially on your pocket unless your gas is as cheap as piped gas ,efficient on your pocket compared to electric or oil though i expect

 

with persuasion i managed to get the plumber who rewired the faulty valve to fit with a lower value thermostat for the tank ,ludicrous its supposed to be 60 degrees and then you have to use cold water to use it ,heating up water so you can waste water to use it is not "efficient" now modern washers only have cold feeds (i believe) having hot water for them is pointless (ours only uses the hot pipe for 90 degree washes)

 

our old system was pretty good with the tank right next to the back boiler no need for a 3 way valve it heated the tank naturally and the hot water only went one way compared to two now (from the boiler to the tank then from the tank to the sink next to the boiler) the boiler itself was ancient but i'm sure a modern version would be better than the new boiler as its laid out.

 

the last house had no valves only a lever ,not even a pump ,if you wanted hot radiators you opened the lever and they slowly got hot 2" cast iron pipes running through the loft

though,boiler though was oil ! why blue flame technology isnt used is a mystery its ancient and far more efficient in use than the technology in the boiler then.Having a spinning disk (using electric continually) could be substituted by preheating the oil just like a tilley with electric and burning the gas which also preheated the feed allowing the electric to be switched off

 

UPDATE 2 machine gone through its first full load ,the strange high pitch whistle i noticed has gone i suspect it is the new brushes fully bedded in now ,no drips leaks or strange noises or subtle flashes seen underneath .

 

Also when it was apart i removed the heater (second after removing the pump looking for clues) not sure why the machine gets so clogged with chalk in the advert the waters hard here and there was little chalk on the heater nor what i could see of the drum.The pipework itself was spotless the pump housing the same

we do use a machine cleaning potion every six months or so so that may account for it but after cool washes with my socks it needs it and not to get rid of chalk

perhaps if we did more 90 degree washes the chalk would build up like on a kettle element?

Edited October 2, 2011 by chesters1

[poledark]

Funny you should mention Espares Dave. My Dyson packed up a couple of days ago, but being one of the "super rich" I have another vacuum "for upstairs" so left it until today to have a look at the Dyson.

 

I fitted a new motor about 3 years ago, but found that the old one only needed brushes So, I expected to find worn out brushes, no, perfect, so put it all back together (thanks to Espares videos). Before checking the switch I decided to give it a try.....it works

 

Den

[chesters1]

when they first came out they tended just to fail on the on-off switch where a low quality one was used ,now with the continual cutting back on materials to save money i guess the plastic is as thin as it can be ,the copper wires in the motors as thin as its safe to be and it could potentially fail anywhere where its probably not worth fixing unless your stubborn like me and isnt bothered by what the repair looks like if it still works.

 

I bought a new disk cutter a few months ago and lo and behold it came with a spare set of brushes but will it last long enough without burning out the motor wiring to actually wear the old ones out?

 

As for dysons the car boots are full of them and the dumps sorry "recycling centres" have piles of them

 

the washer is 10 years old for a modern bit of equipment fairly old ,i guess the parts for our 1950's prestcold fridge may take some finding

Edited October 2, 2011 by chesters1