Braid bargains?

[chavender]

i first used PowerPro about 10 years ago or so brilliant stuff (origanal PowerPro) for spinning and trotting (and i still have it on reels and some in the braid draw ) ,my only problem with it was the noise it made going through the rod rings .(one lot lost its colour and faded to white but still good) ,i then switched too fireline crystal when it first came out ,again no problems brilliant line ,i don't know if its because it was the first lot made or if they changed it later ,but mines never gone fuzzy .and its must be six years old by now .

 

but i have just recieved some new blue SUPER 8 SLICK POWER PRO not cheap but not too expensive ,its said to be quieter through the rings ,i'm going grayling fishing soon so will be giving it a good tryout if it is quieter then maybe i'll get some more and fill my other reels with it.

 

translucents of line doesn't mean that much ,and theres no such thing when it comes to braids ,the lines are either white or a off white colour ,try to get a colour that'll fit in with the suroundings in your chosen swim .

[Nicepix]

I've always shied away from braid for trotting as I believed that it being a much finer diameter, it would dig in. Is this not the case?

 

I'm currently using Korum Floating Line on the two pins I use for trotting (Adcock Stanton and Match Ariel). It was problematic initially and just before my patience ran out it started to run better. After about ten sessions it was much, much better and performs really well.

[Tigger]

I've used braid for trotting and i'd prefer mono. I prefer the stretch and abrasive qualities of mono. In my local rivers rocks and sharp objects abound and my line often scrapes over them when playing a fish. I always have a quick check of my line after catching a fish and many times after catching a fish i've had to discard the last few yards of line and re-tie my hook due to the line being frayed on rocks etc. If I used braid i'd be loosing a lot of fish which would be trailing hooks and line.

[Renrag39]

Used the cheap 'Power Maxx' braid. I think most of the cheaper stuff is 3-ply. Good stuff imo. A bit more noisy and quite a flattened profile compared to Power Pro (which is excellent too). Use 80lb Power Maxx on my Beachcaster. Will also spool some up for FS Kayak fishing too later this year.

Currently have 30lb Red PP on my FS lure set-up. May try the Power Maxx on that Baitcaster I got off Budgie but am hesitant due to its profile... Would this make any difference to it bedding in? Not experienced with Baitcasters. Any help on this front would be appreciated or I'll stick to PP instead.

[chavender]

I've always shied away from braid for trotting as I believed that it being a much finer diameter, it would dig in. Is this not the case?

 

I'm currently using Korum Floating Line on the two pins I use for trotting (Adcock Stanton and Match Ariel). It was problematic initially and just before my patience ran out it started to run better. After about ten sessions it was much, much better and performs really well.

 

 

braid will not dig in any more than mono ,if its spooled currectly as with mono a little tension goes a long way ,braid floats better than mono and lifts off cleaner and more sensative ,idealy you'd be using a mono hooklength to give a little give for the fish to pull against .due too the increased sensativity you have to use a measured approach to your strike and using your rod as the main shock absorber ,but braid is very effective.

 

the only real down side is braid isn't suitable for all rivers ,because mono is more abrasive resistant and some rivers are just two rocky or braid isn't allowed ,that where the justification comes in the buy a second centrepin one for mono ,one for braid

[Phone]

Chav,

 

Take a look at the detail adjacent to each lure on the thread "Which line?". I'd be interested in your comments. These bass guys, like Newt, are serious as a heart attack.

 

Phone

[chavender]

well its like any fishing you've got too match your line to the method and tackle being used ,i use braid when trotting because it does the job better than mono for me ,i try too match the dia too the dia/bs of hooklink ( i do tend to use heavier lines than most anglers ,it mostly equal to 4lbs or 6lbs mono B/s ,usually between 15lbs-25lbs braids depending on brand) .the braid will always be stronger than my hooklink ,and in case of a snap off the lighter bs mono should let go first and as i tend to use floats that suite a low down bulk shotting ,i usually have this on the braid and only one or two little shot and the hook on the hooklength ,and if these snag should pull off the line easily enough and the fish just has to dislodge the hook ,something british fish are quite apt at doing ,normally at the least opertune time .aqnd most of the braid sits on the suface between float and rod .

 

if i was bottom fishing (ledgering) then i use a heaver braid but a sinking one ,i have used floro for ledgering but because its density is higher than mono or braid its useless for floatfishing as a mainline but ok as a hooklink ,i do sometimes have to use mono and for river floatfishing (trotting) i use speciallist floating lines .and for stillwater ponds etc i use intermiadiate lines like maxima or sensas ,the trick is too match the lines to the methods and species targeted

 

it does mean however i have lots of different reels and lines ,if i change a line and its still good (line can be expensive so i don't like to waste it) it gets re-spooled onto a empty carrier spool labelled and placed into a dark draw .and lines thats not worth re-using also gets respooled but goes into the backing lines draw .i don't like to through things away .

[Nicepix]

braid will not dig in any more than mono ,if its spooled currectly as with mono a little tension goes a long way ,braid floats better than mono and lifts off cleaner and more sensative ,idealy you'd be using a mono hooklength to give a little give for the fish to pull against .due too the increased sensativity you have to use a measured approach to your strike and using your rod as the main shock absorber ,but braid is very effective.

 

the only real down side is braid isn't suitable for all rivers ,because mono is more abrasive resistant and some rivers are just two rocky or braid isn't allowed ,that where the justification comes in the buy a second centrepin one for mono ,one for braid

 

Thanks for that. I've used braid on multipliers and had line dig in more than with mono, but I'll give it a go in the near future. I only have around fifty yards of line on the 'pins I use for trotting.

 

Braid can be made less susceptible to fraying by soaking the required length in a weak solution of PVA adhesive. Just the last three feet or so is enough. If you need extra stiffness in your end tackle, and sometimes we all do , smearing PVA onto the last foot or so of your braid, the part below where you would put your ledger stop for example, will cause it to stiffen considerably.

[Phone]

Nicepix,

 

Do you remember the thread about putting line on your reel and how some guys used a bucket of water?

 

Well, in the case of braid that helps the line lay on the reel properly. Equally, I've been told braid should be slightly more snug on the reel at the time you transfer if from the manufacturers spool. Do you find this true? Line diameter and shape is what gave/gives braid the reputation for didding in. 3 ply isn't round and does dig into itself.

 

You might ask Newt or wait for another response but this "shape" is the source of many a' birds nest using a multiplier.

 

Phone

[chavender]

Thanks for that. I've used braid on multipliers and had line dig in more than with mono, but I'll give it a go in the near future. I only have around fifty yards of line on the 'pins I use for trotting.

 

Braid can be made less susceptible to fraying by soaking the required length in a weak solution of PVA adhesive. Just the last three feet or so is enough. If you need extra stiffness in your end tackle, and sometimes we all do , smearing PVA onto the last foot or so of your braid, the part below where you would put your ledger stop for example, will cause it to stiffen considerably.

 

 

thats the difference though between centrepins and multipliers/baitcasters the amount of line on the spool ,with 50m or so you really shouldn't get much bedding in .you might after a big fish sometimes because of the pressure put on the line and if theres any room for movement (and there probably will be) it will cut in ,but no more than mono would in the same situration ,after a good fish i'll let my float unbaited run out beyond the capture zone if i can (dummy-run) ,to get a good relaying of the line ready to go again to avoid any bedding in

 

with multipliers/baitcasters you have a lot of line on the spool ,and therefore more opertunity for bedding/cutting in. the shape of the braid will have a effect round or trilobe or flat as these lines will butt up against the other coils on the spool better than others . now if they could make a decent square line ,that would solve all bedding in problems .