Ultimate bobbin

[poledark]

So, if I summarise it correctly, you are looking for an indicator system that doesn't move in a wind, in order to see a bite which moves the bobbin up at least 24"?

 

I think Steve is moving in the right direction with the telescopic adjustable weight swingers...I have a set which were made about 20 years ago, and used the Gardner clip as Andy has done. I only stopped using them because the clip tends to grip braid, and now use my other design which merely rests on the line.

 

At the moment, for my piking I have them mounted on a seperate "T" bar which can be moved along the centre of the pod to optimise the position relative to the reel.

 

Andy, and anyone else interested, if you thread a bit of lead wire up the JR rig tube before heating it, it stops the tube "collapsing". The lead wire is simply pulled out after the tube has cooled, in practise this is almost instantly. Been making bent tube rigs for years...little short 90deg bits sticking out the front of feeders for example Caught a lot of fish for me

 

Another tip that may be useful, "non tangle" cord....thread your cord through some supple rig tube, couple of bits of shrink tube to cover the knots.............lovely stuff

 

Den

Edited January 21, 2009 by poledark

[tincatinca]

Just got back from a few days up north and called in at a B&Q to pick up a few bits. What I have got is 1 metre lengths of ali tube 6mm od x 4mm bore and 1 metre lengths of solid fibreglass 4mm dia. The fibreglass will slide inside the ali tube therefore the maximum potential length of the swinger would be just under 2 metres however this is obviously far too long and the finished length of each part would be dictated by the length of drop required relative to the arc of movement. I will make a rubber/plastic collar which will be bonded to the outside of the ali tube and which will give interference to the fibreglass rod to ensure that it holds fast in any position. This will give an adequate telescopic action. The next thing is to make a cap for the end of the fibregalss on which to attatch the bobbin so that it is free to move within the arc of the swinger. It will also be fairly simple to fit as sliding weight to either the ali or the glass which could be locked in any position by means og 'O' rings placed either side of the weight. Now comes the harder bit which is to make a mounting for the banksticks which will cater for banksticks of different diameters. In addition I am also looking at various ways to attatch a counter balance mechanism to the rear ie on a fox swinger for instance you can place the balance weight behind the pivot point to achieve a neutral balance if required.

 

I have attached a couple of photos showing the ali tube and fibreglass rod. As I make up the bits I will add photos

 

Sorry for the poor quality but it will give you some ide

 

 

 

[Dick Dastardly]

Anderoo,what you show is exactly the sort of thing Im on about. Using a bit of rubber for the "hinge" (pike drop off style) wont work in this case though as it doesnt stop the lateral movement in wind we are trying to avoid.

 

The "hinge" on the production models was made of moulded plastic clip with a bar going across.The arm was mounted in a holder that pivoted on this bar.

 

My DIY version was made from Steves good old Bulldog clips.The clip being used to conect the indicater to the bank stick and the two holes in the clips "arms" had the pivot bar placed through them.The clip stayed permenantly on the bank stick and the indicater arm just removed for transporting.Think this time I will look for something a bit smaller and tidier but the priciple will remain the same.Still hoping my origonal ones will turn up though!

[Dick Dastardly]

Tinca to attach the head to the arm have a look at how I did it when ataching the head to the springer arm in the "Carp Springer" link.

[tincatinca]

Tinca to attach the head to the arm have a look at how I did it when ataching the head to the springer arm in the "Carp Springer" link.

 

Budgie, something like the solar hocky stick is what I envisage to bond to the end of the fibreglass arm. This will then allow the fitting of a split link which will enable you to easily change over bobbins

[poledark]

Tinca, seems to me you have been peeping in my "old" tackle store What you are doing/have done is exactly what I did many years ago If you want to add the counterbalance section, I superglued a length of stiff brazing rod (2.5mm dia) into the back end of the outer tube. This was bent to shape so the sliding weight could be set back past the pivot point Put the weight on first though Mine were all brass, weight didn't matter as they can be counterbalanced.

 

I used this with a gardner type clip for several years.

 

The ONLY problem I ever had was when I switched to my present setup as it would tend to twist, not a problem with any "bobbin" type of clip.

 

This was the setup I tested by tying a bit of bread to the end of some line down the garden and watched it twitch as the sparrows pecked at the bread

 

A good scource for this type of material is an aircraft model shop.

 

Den

Edited January 21, 2009 by poledark

[tincatinca]

Tinca, seems to me you have been peeping in my "old" tackle store What you are doing/have done is exactly what I did many years ago If you want to add the counterbalance section, I superglued a length of stiff brazing rod (2mm dia) into the back end of the outer tube. This was bent to shape so the sliding weight could be set back. Put the weight on first though Mine were all brass, weight didn't matter as they can be counterbalanced.

 

I used this with a gardner type clip for several years.

 

The ONLY problem I ever had was when I switched to my present setup as it would tend to twist, not a problem with any "bobbin" type of clip.

 

A good scource for this type of material is an aircraft model shop.

 

Den

 

Den,

I have also got a length of solid ali bar 4mm dia. This could be formed ie offset bend and pinned into the rear of the ali tube so that it extends directly behind the bankstick and on which you could also attach a sliding weight. What I have to do is come up with a suitable design for the hinge bracket and bankstick attachment. I am waiting for some ali block to play about with. Another job for the saw, files drill and dremmel To make it work properly the pivot for the swinger will need to sit at least an inch in front of the bankstick.

Edited January 21, 2009 by tincatinca

[poledark]

If it stops raining, I will get some close up pics of my present setup, but you may need access to some machinery to make them. I used catapult rubber for the "sleeve" that went over the joint of the telescopic rod/tube. I seem to remember the inner rod getting pulled right out once, when I had a violent run

 

Den

[poledark]

Here are some pics of my setup..

 

 

This is set up for drop off pike fishing. If I were carp/bream/feeder fishing, then the T bar is moved so the swinger is in front of the reels.

 

 

The "head" has an internal spring and grub screw which allows for adjusting the tension...not that I ever do When a take occurs the little arm pivots and the line slips off as the rod is picked up. Never let me down in at least 20 years.

 

Den

Edited January 22, 2009 by poledark

[Andy Macfarlane]

Not quite the same thing but I've used welding rod that pits up the inside of the JR rig-tubing. Same idea but yours would allow for easier manipulation I think

 

 

.....Regards.....Andy

 

So, if I summarise it correctly, you are looking for an indicator system that doesn't move in a wind, in order to see a bite which moves the bobbin up at least 24"?

 

I think Steve is moving in the right direction with the telescopic adjustable weight swingers...I have a set which were made about 20 years ago, and used the Gardner clip as Andy has done. I only stopped using them because the clip tends to grip braid, and now use my other design which merely rests on the line.

 

At the moment, for my piking I have them mounted on a seperate "T" bar which can be moved along the centre of the pod to optimise the position relative to the reel.

 

Andy, and anyone else interested, if you thread a bit of lead wire up the JR rig tube before heating it, it stops the tube "collapsing". The lead wire is simply pulled out after the tube has cooled, in practise this is almost instantly. Been making bent tube rigs for years...little short 90deg bits sticking out the front of feeders for example Caught a lot of fish for me

 

Another tip that may be useful, "non tangle" cord....thread your cord through some supple rig tube, couple of bits of shrink tube to cover the knots.............lovely stuff

 

Den