Ultimate bobbin

[tincatinca]

Thanks Tinca. That's about right I reckon. The arm material would therefore need to be strong, stiff, thin and light.

 

That is why I have also been looking at the possibility of using some old rod/pole sections. Get the right ones ang you can combine both stiffness and lightness. The problem would be sliding weights because of the taper

[Anderoo]

That is why I have also been looking at the possibility of using some old rod/pole sections. Get the right ones ang you can combine both stiffness and lightness. The problem would be sliding weights because of the taper

 

I'm not going to get into the complexities of sliding weights, I'm just going to use bobbin heads that can have weights screwed in.

[tincatinca]

I'm not going to get into the complexities of sliding weights, I'm just going to use bobbin heads that can have weights screwed in.

I am trying to keep away from adding weight at the end of the arm because it means that you have to stiffen up everything else due to the increased bending moments of force.

[Anderoo]

I am trying to keep away from adding weight at the end of the arm because it means that you have to stiffen up everything else due to the increased bending moments of force.

 

Good point! Have to think about that one.

[Steve Burke]

As I've mentioned I prefer the idea of some form of swinger to a bobbin as it would be more stable in the wind and there would be less chance of tangling.

 

The only reason that I use bobbins is that even I can make them. A swinger is probably beyond me as the following tale illustrates.

 

At school 50% of the marks in our handicraft exam were for design/technical drawing. If I tell you that at the end of this half of the exam I was top of the class, but overall I came bottom, you'll see how bad I am with my hands!

 

I'd prefer to be able to use a bite indicator for all species of fish. Therefore for me it would be absolutely essential that it incorporates a sliding weight. Without one it's very difficult to fish sunken float paternosters, and I use these a lot for pike, a fair bit for perch, and will possibly do so for other species including bream. It also makes some forms of river fishing easier.

 

I haven't had the problem myself that Den has encountered with the Gardner line clip (Den do you mean the all plastic Freeflow one I illustrated in post 124?). However I've yet to use them with braid, although I'm just about to, having just received some 44lb Power Pro from Dave Lumb.

 

Budgie, didn't you recommend another line clip from someone who makes drop-off alarms? I'm afraid I can't find the reference. Can I trouble you to post it again please?

 

It's important that the tension on the line clip can be adjusted independently of the weight. I find this particularly important with perch as specimen stripies often won't tolerate a change in resistance.

 

The line clip also needs to be able to be used with light lines - as I think I mentioned before some of the carp ones can't.

[Dick Dastardly]

That is why I have also been looking at the possibility of using some old rod/pole sections. Get the right ones ang you can combine both stiffness and lightness. The problem would be sliding weights because of the taper

 

The model shop I was in this afternoon had paralell carbon rod in various thickness.

[Dick Dastardly]

Budgie, didn't you recommend another line clip from someone who makes drop-off alarms? I'm afraid I can't find the reference. Can I trouble you to post it again please?

 

Yes mate,they are just converted Gardner ones.I will PM you the method of converting them.They can also be brought ready converted from Steve Brown at the following (if he has any left!)-

 

http://billysbackbiters.blogspot.com/

 

Or contact Steve direct at-

 

steve.bown@btinternet.com

Edited January 23, 2009 by BUDGIE

[tincatinca]

Just got back from B&Q with some more ali bar.to make some endcaps and some small stainless m3 screws. Will be in the workshop tomorrow so hopefully will have something to show over the weekend. Still having a problem with the mount. It looks like I will have to do it the hard way and make one from ali block as the swinger does need to be attached to a suspended fork in order to get the free movement for the counter balance spindle at the back. Not difficult but time consuming. I think that I know where I am going now. Cost wise I am aiming at somewhere in the region of £12.00 a swinger for materials. Initially I am looking to keep everything as light as possible but if necessary it would be easy to beef up the system by going up a tube size as both ali and fibreglass tubing is readily available in B&Q. The sliding weights for each side will be easy to make from some old leads and with a rubber grommet either side should hold in place. Well that is the theory

Budgie, was the carbon rod in the model shop hollow or solid

[Dick Dastardly]

Hollow.I think they had solid as well but the hollow stuff I looked at was stiff enough and light enough.7 quid a length but for mid mounted arms I reckon one length would have been enough for two arms.

[Kappa]

Hollow.I think they had solid as well but the hollow stuff I looked at was stiff enough and light enough.7 quid a length but for mid mounted arms I reckon one length would have been enough for two arms.

 

Unlike the rest of you I'm still thinking bobbins as I don't really like the sound of swingers especially as at the length they would need to be I know I would break them first use! I've got a cheap and expensive version of the bobbin chain but I'm struggling with the adjustable weights!

 

Can anybody telly me the size of the thread on the gardener/ANOTHER bobbin head? I'd like to use the same size for adjustable weights! How easy is it to make tubular brass weights with the male thread at one end and the female at the other? Does anyone have that equipment?

 

Rich