Ultimate bobbin

[Rob Ward]

Wouldn't the hinged solar clips solve the V problem, Paul?

 

In theory they should be hanging at right angles to the line.

[tincatinca]

The strange thing though Paul is that the stainless ball type clips werre meant to stop all of this with braid!

 

The silly part about it is that the smaller the ball the lesser the problem would be at the vee and I am sure that with the right sized ball it would then do job with braid or nylon but with the solar clips as they stand at the moment the line can certainly become slightly pinched if you look at the picture where the balls are untouched you can see what I mean. I have just had the dremmel out and modified a spare line clip and as you can see I have removed a fair bit of material. The result is good though as the line whether nylpn or braid now passes fairly freely. Just a bit of polishing is now required and it should be ok.

 

[poledark]

I know that they are a bit expensive, but the Springloks really do do the job extremely well. I have a workshop full of things which didn't quite make it, but the Springloks did

 

The smallest size would be ideal added to the end of your long swinger arms, simply cut the chain down to about 2" long. The arms are about 9" long, but I have used tried them with arms 30" long.

 

 

Den

Edited February 1, 2011 by poledark

[tincatinca]

Wouldn't the hinged solar clips solve the V problem, Paul?

 

In theory they should be hanging at right angles to the line.

 

Rob,

 

I think that the hinged clip would suffer from the same problem i.e. the vee between the balls. Movement of the bobbin head is not an issue as it is hinged at the bottom so it is always vertical. It is the line drag on the bobbins that is the problem particularly when the bobbin is lightly loaded.

[tincatinca]

I know that they are a bit expensive, but the Springloks really do do the job extremely well. I have a workshop full of things which didn't quite make it, but the Springloks did

 

The smallest size would be ideal added to the end of your long swinger arms, simply cut the chain down to about 2" long. The arms are about 9" long, but I have used tried them with arms 30" long.

 

 

Den

 

Den,

 

I have no doubt whatsoever that the springloks work and indeed they are an excellent product however it is a lot to pay out for 4 and I reckon material wise I could knock something workable up based on the monkey climber principle for less than the price of one plus the fact that it is a challenge and I do not want to butcher the rest of my mk11 swingers as I most probably will have a need for them when I retire later this year. The other thing is that when it is really choppy, I can have a fair bit of weight on the end of the arm and as I am sure you know spring rate and loading are key elements and whatever I finish up with will need to cater for light and heavy loading with every thing in between. Nice Carp you had by the way and you really did me when you said you were just starting to feel the cold. God knows what I will be like in a few years as I have a hell of a job trying to keep warm now.

[poledark]

Spring rates etc are no problem, just need to be strong enough to keep the pin in place. You make it all sound so techical, when it really is extremely simple. Re the cost, they will last you a lifetime..................

 

Regarding adding extra weight, Springloks can be as heavy as you like, I have some which are 4oz, and they only come off when you lift the rod and tighten the chain, probably no limit to how heavy you want them to be

 

Den

Edited February 1, 2011 by poledark

[tincatinca]

Spring rates etc are no problem, just need to be strong enough to keep the pin in place. You make it all sound so techical, when it really is extremely simple. Re the cost, they will last you a lifetime..................

 

Regarding adding extra weight, Springloks can be as heavy as you like, I have some which are 4oz, and they only come off when you lift the rod and tighten the chain, probably no limit to how heavy you want them to be

 

Den

 

Den,

 

I do not dispute what you say regarding the springloks as I believe that I have a very good idea as to how they work however I am not trying to simulate what you have done but to adapt a very simple principle of utilising a captive peg running through the length of the bobbin body which should be very simple to make. I totally accept that in your design you can utilise as you put it a spring with just sufficient strength to keep the pin up which does not release until until it is in tension irrespective of the loading. The design I am looking at whilst similar in overall principle utilising a spring loaded pin does rely heavily on the spring being able to cater for different loadings hence the need to apply various elements of spring data in order to ensure the pin holds under load and also releases the line easily on the strike. One could apply trial and error as I am sure many do but a little bit of calculation does tend to narrow the possibilities down considerably. Whilst I would happy to spend over a £100 on a rod, reel or a bivvy or bivvy for example, I just cannot justify that amount on 4 bobbins. Having said that, they are a very good design and just like you, I do like to play about with ideas.

[tincatinca]

Well all the bits I ordered arrived today, a tap wrench and die holder for the lathe along with the relative taps, dies and the springs. Had a quick play with the springs and I think they will be perfect for the job. Drilling with1mm dia drills should prove to be interesting so I have got plenty of spares just in case. With a bit of luck should be able to make a start on the bobbin heads Friday evening and get a few prototypes knocked up at the weekend. Will post some pictures when I have got one working.

[poledark]

Just for the record, where did you get your springs? No one wanted to supply less than a couple of thousand when I was searching, unless your springs are cosiderably stronger than the ones I wanted.

 

Den

[tincatinca]

Just for the record, where did you get your springs? No one wanted to supply less than a couple of thousand when I was searching, unless your springs are cosiderably stronger than the ones I wanted.

 

Den

 

From here Den

 

http://www.entexstocksprings.co.uk/index.p...=35&unit=mm

 

You can buy any quantity of stocked springs but the dely charge is a bit heavy if you only want a few so I stocked up. The biggest issue was finding a spring with the right rate that would fit a 3mm pin but I have had to compromise and use a spring that fits a 2.5mm pin.Because of that I have also had to get M2.5 taps and a die. At least it will make the bobbins a little bit lighter. For what I am doing the no 903 spring has worked very well in initial tests.