Fishing hooks

[Newt]

Out of interest Newt, have you any idea how hooks are 'chemically sharpened'?

I don't have a clue corydoras. I do know that all I manage to do with a stone is to make the hook point worse.

 

This is probably due in large part to the fact that I use almost nothing other than circle hooks these days and the curved point on them is a real horror to try and sharpen.

 

My basic feeling is that I spend enough money to go fishing that a little more spent on hooks if it prevents lost fish is money well spent.

[Dick Dastardly]

Newt ,the Diamond Ezeelap sharpener that I use does circles ok.

[gozzer]

Come on some hooks are £4 for 8... they could be made of gold for that....

 

I bin my hook at the end of every session, often its getting dark and its easier to break off my hook (and split shot) and stick it in a bin bag. My hooks are seldom more than 10p each and I will probably chuck many times that worth of maggots in at the end of a session. Like someone else said, my hooks have been snagged in various pieces of vegetation through a session and prob wouldn't be good for another 8 or 10 hours of fishing. I would mostly use size 10 or less.

 

My lures, I try and sharpen hooks before each use. I am disappointed when some obviously cheap trebles rust but I struggle to change them and have on occaision fished a lure where the hook isn't in the best condition!

 

I heard that your youngster wears out more hooks on fish than you do Mr M!

[Vagabond]

have you any idea how hooks are 'chemically sharpened'?

There ya go Corrie

 

http://www.fishingpatents.com/chemically-s...tents-usa.shtml

 

Possible with car battery (sulphuric) acid and a DC lash-up with more car batteries.

 

Have done it in the past, but really its a lot of bother to save pennies. I do NOT recommend anyone try it unless they KNOW what they are doing (if anyone just THINKS they know - that is not good enough leccy plus acid can be dodgy)

 

Larger hooks (like for conger, skate, shark etc) are better done by hand with a file and finished off with fine emery cloth.

 

Norma and I have been catching skate on the same half-dozen 12/0 hooks since 1999

 

I change small (ie 12 or smaller) hooks only if

1. I have been snagged and hook has straightened - I NEVER re-bend it - a re-bent hook is a weak hook

 

2. I detect rust (I think the "taste" of rust puts fish off) - I clean bait off my hooks thoroughly when packing up to avoid rust - rinse in clean water and dry thoroughly when I get home. Same applies to lures and flies - never put them away wet and the hooks will last years.

 

3. The hook has lost its sharpness - some keep sharp for three or four sessions, but continual re-baiting with maggots will blunt a hook eventually.

Edited September 21, 2006 by Vagabond

[Dick Dastardly]

Mr M, why do you struggle to change hooks on your lures?

 

Vagabond,interesting observation re the fish "tasting" rust on a hook.Why do you say this?

Edited September 21, 2006 by BUDGIE

[Vagabond]

Vagabond,interesting observation re the fish "tasting" rust on a hook. Why do you say this?

 

Budgie, I have never done any formal experiments (using "rusty" against "clean" hooks) to test the idea, but years ago, when I was hard-up I used to re-use hooks till they rusted clean away. Unfortunately, as a youth, I was not only hard-up but too lazy to clean the hooks properly if I kept them for more than one session. Result - I fished with VERY rusty hooks

 

I formed the impression I was getting more bites on new, clean hooks than on old rusty ones. This was more marked with sea-fish than freshwater.

 

So now, unless I can clean any rust off (easier with larger hooks) I replace the hook.

 

As an anthropomorphic and subjective aside, I often eat my waterside snap peasant-fashion, using only a clasp knife as a tool to carve bits off a chunk of Shropshire Blue cheese, a ham-bone or a venison haunch.

 

My modern stainless Swiss-Army knife leaves no taste, but I can distinctly pick up the rusty "tang" from my old deerhorn-handled hunter's knife with its rust-pocked but easily-sharpened blade.

 

If I can detect such a tang, I think the fish might too - so I avoid rusty hooks.

[Dick Dastardly]

Yes I agree we can taste the difference so maybe the fish can as well.I was just interested to hear if you had done any research.

 

Mr M thats why I asked,I wondered if you put split rings on your lures hook hangers before putting new hooks on.Have you tried a pair of split ring pliers? I find it fiddly with my fingers as well.I also think that with a split ring connecting the hook to the lure you have less chance of the lure "levering" the hooks out of a pike once hooked.

[poledark]

Vagabond, could be a much simpler reason why "new" hooks catch more than rusty ones...simply because they are sharper, and the point has not rusted away

 

For my part, I change when I THINK the point has deteriorated, any doubt and out it goes. My current hooks cost £4 .40 for 10, so it is quite a sacrifice.

 

Likewise, if I get a few bleeps or little lifts which don't develop into runs, then I change hooks, but don't always throw that one away!!

 

Den

Edited September 21, 2006 by poledark

[Dick Dastardly]

Mr M,"Split Ring Pliers" look like normal long nose pliers but have a "beak" like protrusion on the tip which when you squeeze the ring opens it up.Cant post a picture.Dont know if Andrews got a pair he could show you down the Pool?

[Newt]

but some have, I think they are called, split rings. I even bought some but I can't get the split rings to close in a way that gives me confidence that they won't give way in a tussle!

 

 

 

Split Ring Pliers are what you need.