Spinning for trout thread

[AddictedToScopex]

Hi guys,

 

I am considering getting onto the river spinning for trout. I have done this a few times (albeit for short sessions) and had very very little success. I have tried spinners, plugs and a multitude of different retrieves in different swims. Basically the intention of this thread is to try and glean some useful information from the old hands who have become adept at spinning for trout. I assume there wont be all that many of you about as it doesnt seem the most popular method but I am getting major withdrawals from being on the river and want to get down there and have a go with the spinning gear. I assume this is perfectly legal under the close season as I am led to believe?

 

So here are a few questions to get you going:

 

1) What is your favourite trout plug or spinner including approx size and weight?

2) What conditions do you prefer to spin for trout in?

3) What kind of swim would you approach first when hoping for trout?

4) What has been your most productive type of retrieve

5) What is the heaviest line you would use?

 

I should add that there doesnt seem to be any perch or pike in the area and so traces arent needed and I would likely use 6lb sensor. Would you think this is ok or should I stick with braid in case of snagging. I wouldnt want to leave yards of line in the water in the event of a breakage but also wouldnt want the braid to put off the trout. I should also add that the river bed is rocky however and so braid could easily become frayed in a fight.

 

I look forward to hearing your thoughts.

[Emma two]

Hi guys,

So here are a few questions to get you going:

 

1) What is your favourite trout plug or spinner including approx size and weight?

2) What conditions do you prefer to spin for trout in?

3) What kind of swim would you approach first when hoping for trout?

4) What has been your most productive type of retrieve

5) What is the heaviest line you would use?

 

I look forward to hearing your thoughts.

 

1, I like bladesd (mepps type) spinners for trout, I use them in size 2,3 and 4. Spoons of around 2" are good too. There is a whole range of colours to choose from, I like brass ones, these often come with red spots. Small tobys are catchers too. Some insist that silver will do good, especially for sea trout

 

2. I like to spin when the river is faling after a spate, the colour is just leaving the water thinning it back to clear. The extra water sometimes helps stop getting snagged on the bottom, although a flood will of course bring down extrapotential obsticles, uprooted trees, dead sheep etc. Some textbooks will say thay spining is best in sunny condotions, perhaps, but I wouldn't put off a session just because its cloudy and dull,, you will still catch.

 

3, Trout can be found in all places in the river, even laying in a few inches of rapid water over a stony bottom, deep slow pools can produce, as can the classic gravel type 'glide'.

 

4, vary retrieve speed, in fast water you can cast downstream across the current and let the flow put life in to your lure, this works especially well with bladesd spinners, takes often come when your not retrieving, fishing the same way as you would a team of downstream wet flies. In other area vary to retrieve, but always remember that flowing water will impart action to whatever lure you are using so much more than still water when you have to do all the work.

 

6, the line you propose should do fine, I use braid because all of my spinning, and low profile reels are loaded with it. Be sure to use an anti-kink device or your mono will quickly become twisted.

 

I hopw that this helps, and it's not the 'close season' for game fishing. The opening dates do vary from area to ares but typically for brown trout it's the middle of March.

I shall say (again) we don't have a game fishing section in here.

[Vagabond]

The above is OK for large rivers, but if you spin for trout, then, within reason, the smaller the stream, the better - you can get very close to the trout (even when your cast is less than perfect, provided the spinner lands in the water it will be close to a trout also ) , you catch more, and the method is challenging in both casting accuracy and the commando-tactics to get into position. By small, I mean a stream that can be waded comfortably in a pair of thigh waders.

 

Cast downstream if you like, but casting upstream with a Vibro/Vibrax/Mepps or similar #1 has caught me many thousands of trout . So deadly is this method in the hands of an accurate caster who has learnt where the trout lie, that I only employ it these days to quickly catch one or two trout to eat. Casting upstream means you are behind the fish and unless you are noisy, wade clumsily, or are careless the fish can't see you - cast downstream, and the fish is in a position to see you.

 

Spinning speed ? If you cast upstream and pull the spinner downstream with the current, it is impossible to spin too fast

A trout taking a spinner going downstream will pursue it, then turn back upstream as it takes - so will invariably be hooked in the scissors. A trout taking a spinner moving upstream tends to take the treble into its mouth, giving you the hassle of removing three hooks.

 

Invest in a pair of thigh waders and wade ultra-cautiously upstream, casting to likely spots as you go. So what are these "likely spots"?. Keep your eyes skinned for the bow-waves of trout you have spooked - a few hours of that will teach you more about trout lies than reams of print. Remember the lies - and take MUCH more care not to spook them next time.

 

BTW fishing this method with 4lb monofilament means you don't need anti-kink devices (which with the best will in the world affect the presentation and cause a too-splashy entry) - Why not ? Because, once you have perfected the method, and acquired the watercraft to locate the trout, the spinner is never in the water for long before a trout takes it !

 

and also BTW don't use a "light" spinning rod that is too soft - I use a steely split bamboo of 7 ft - too soft an action and a small-stream trout will gain a couple of feet in rod-bend and be in the roots

 

EDIT - another BTW concerns "leaving yards of line" If you use 4lb mono straight through (I use Maxima) then the grinner knot with which you tie on your spinner will be the weakest spot in your tackle - in any case, if you DID have the misfortune to have a breakage of the main line close to the rod, then remember I am talking small stream and you have your thigh waders on - go in and get it !

Edited April 25, 2012 by Vagabond

[AddictedToScopex]

Excellent replies so far. I have been informed that I may not be allowed to spin for trout outside of the coarse season. Is this true for all places or just a local byelaw? I had always thought it was allowed to spin for trout in the closed coarse season.

 

Either way I will still be doing it in the future if I cant now and I am enjoying reading the response. I particularly like the idea of wading upstream as maybe I have been spooking all the fish in the past.

 

I plan to use my new spinning rod which is the RON THOMPSON STEELHEAD PRO SPIN ROD 10FT COARSE 10-40g. It seems very good even with really light lures and it is a joy to use.

Edited April 25, 2012 by AddictedToScopex

[Andy_1984]

good replies so all i can add is you would be better off making your own spinners, not only will it be cheaper in the long run but you get a little added satisfaction on a home made spinner.

 

blue and white beads with small silver or gold blades.

 

also dont ever think a swim looks unlikely. ive cast in to calm spots on torrents about 1ft by 1ft and probably only a few inches deep surrounded by rocks with water flowing over them in to the tiny little pool and had trout from it, on spinners.

[Emma two]

The above is OK for large rivers, but if you spin for trout, then, within reason, the smaller the stream, the better - you can get very close to the trout (even when your cast is less than perfect, provided the spinner lands in the water it will be close to a trout also ) , you catch more, and the method is challenging in both casting accuracy and the commando-tactics to get into position. By small, I mean a stream that can be waded comfortably in a pair of thigh waders.

 

Cast downstream if you like, but casting upstream with a Vibro/Vibrax/Mepps or similar #1 has caught me many thousands of trout . So deadly is this method in the hands of an accurate caster who has learnt where the trout lie, that I only employ it these days to quickly catch one or two trout to eat. Casting upstream means you are behind the fish and unless you are noisy, wade clumsily, or are careless the fish can't see you - cast downstream, and the fish is in a position to see you.

 

Spinning speed ? If you cast upstream and pull the spinner downstream with the current, it is impossible to spin too fast

A trout taking a spinner going downstream will pursue it, then turn back upstream as it takes - so will invariably be hooked in the scissors. A trout taking a spinner moving upstream tends to take the treble into its mouth, giving you the hassle of removing three hooks.

 

Invest in a pair of thigh waders and wade ultra-cautiously upstream, casting to likely spots as you go. So what are these "likely spots"?. Keep your eyes skinned for the bow-waves of trout you have spooked - a few hours of that will teach you more about trout lies than reams of print. Remember the lies - and take MUCH more care not to spook them next time.

 

BTW fishing this method with 4lb monofilament means you don't need anti-kink devices (which with the best will in the world affect the presentation and cause a too-splashy entry) - Why not ? Because, once you have perfected the method, and acquired the watercraft to locate the trout, the spinner is never in the water for long before a trout takes it !

 

and also BTW don't use a "light" spinning rod that is too soft - I use a steely split bamboo of 7 ft - too soft an action and a small-stream trout will gain a couple of feet in rod-bend and be in the roots

 

EDIT - another BTW concerns "leaving yards of line" If you use 4lb mono straight through (I use Maxima) then the grinner knot with which you tie on your spinner will be the weakest spot in your tackle - in any case, if you DID have the misfortune to have a breakage of the main line close to the rod, then remember I am talking small stream and you have your thigh waders on - go in and get it !

 

When we answer these types of questions, to give asked for advice, then we imagine that we are fishing a river we know and have used the method in. I can't imagine many parts of the rivers I have done most of my spinning for trout in where casting upstream would be a practical option, and I have tried it. The river I think of is fast (some authorities have it as the fastest in England, although there us some debate over that) and typically very shallow and only a few yards across. In a thinning spate, the optimum time for spinning one would have to have the bail arm clicked over and be already retrieving before the spoon hit the water. one has to be fairly fast anyway even when casting downstream to prevent the spinner from hitting the bottom and becoming snagged. It would be an awkward, ungainly business. However I can imagine that upstream is effective on the right type of water. Long and accuratew casting often resolves, to an extent, the issue of fish seeing you. I have been successful on that river casting an upstream fly, but the places to do it are half a mile apart and each only good for a few casts where one either catches, puts the fish down or they are not present (yet...sea trout).

 

Vagabond has give you the beneift of his experience on the waters he has fished, and I on mine, where do you plan to have a go?

[Emma two]

... I have been informed that I may not be allowed to spin for trout outside of the coarse season. Is this true for all places or just a local byelaw? I had always thought it was allowed to spin for trout in the closed coarse season.

 

 

I imagine that, that is a specifically local issue, and it will vary. Fishing around here in a river at this time of year would not cause much stir, its a normal thing to do and it isn't the 'close season' at all, we are over a month into 'the season'. If one was to take a rod to the river in november, december, january or february, then that would attract attention, both of the EA bailiffs and the locals who would gather to see the lunatic! .

 

If there are game fish present in the water you plan to fish, and the season for that river is open for them, and you can reasonably demonstrate that it's them that you are after then you should have no problem, but it would be better to check first, I would contact the EA before and clubs or associations.

[AddictedToScopex]

Vagabond has give you the beneift of his experience on the waters he has fished, and I on mine, where do you plan to have a go?

Well I would very likely be on the non tidal Ribble. It can be powerful in places and very deep in others so if I were to snag up and snap in the deeper stuff there isnt a chance I am going in after it hence my question about line. I normally wear chest waders when trotting so its not a problem getting in the water somewhere. The main reason that I like the idea of the upstream spinning is that the water can be very clear at times.

 

I dont think it runs to fast for upstream spinning a lot of the time and I know certain spots where it would be very doable.

Edited April 25, 2012 by AddictedToScopex

[Emma two]

Well I would very likely be on the non tidal Ribble. It can be powerful in places and very deep in others so if I were to snag up and snap in the deeper stuff there isnt a chance I am going in after it hence my question about line. I normally wear chest waders when trotting so its not a problem getting in the water somewhere. The main reason that I like the idea of the upstream spinning is that the water can be very clear at times.

 

I dont think it runs to fast for upstream spinning a lot of the time and I know certain spots where it would be very doable.

 

 

I fished the 'Tickled trout' stretch or the Ribble a long time ago, the early 80s. I remember catching chub at night while wet fly fishing for sea trout. As far as I can remember then it is suitable to try to upstream stuff, perhaps one of the more local rods (Lutra?) will contribute here too. I hope it works for you when you do give it a go.

[Ken L]

1. A simple Mepps will outscore just about everything but sometimes a small minnow plug is handy as a change bait.

With spinners, I tend not to drop below size 2 because even small trout will inhale a lure and the smaller sizes seem to cause more gill damage than big ones, sizes 2 and 3 should cover most situations.

2. Clear water but as Emma says, a bit of colour after a spate is OK so long as the level isn’t to high.

3. Fast shallow water (even if it only looks a few inches deep) will hold trout but the run in and run offs from fords are also worth targeting. A bit of cover also helps.

4. Trout hate lures that are travelling upstream. Cast up and retrieve back fast enough to keep the blade moving. To fish the downstream portion of the swim, cast across and let the lure swing around (You may have to wind very slowly to keep the blade going) and just let the lure swing across the stream.

5. I would start off with 10lb Firleine. Your could use a thin braid like Whiplash upto 20lb but wind knots are an issue with light braids and light lures and they will drive you insane.

 

I would definitely recommend assuming that pike are present and using a trace. If you get through half a dozen sessions and there is still no sign of any, you might want to drop down to a light flouro leader – not just because it’s low vis but because it’s stiffer than mono and this helps reduce tangles.

 

For river trout, you really don’t need a lure rod rated to cast more than 20g or a reel bigger than 2000 size – although I do almost all my fishing with a 1000.