Vagabonds in Brazil

[Vagabond]

The Brazilian Amazon had been on our “hit list” for some time, ever since we had had a taste of Neotropical fishing in Ecuador some years back.

 

We had done a lot of reading up about Amazonian fish, birds and other fauna – so we set Norma’s organisational skills to work to put together a suitable itinerary. We wanted to mix some guided fishing with unguided sorties and to apply the same strategy to our birdwatching. We also wanted to sample several locations – and catch and see as wide a variety of fish and birds as possible in a five-week trip. Having said that, we had to bear in mind that the Amazon basin is roughly the same size as Australia, and after ten trips to Oz, we still have a lot to explore there.

 

We decided to visit two separate major tributaries of the Amazon– the Xingu and the Teles Pires – both of which flow into the Amazon from the south but are a considerable distance apart. In between these trips we wanted to look at the estuarine island of Marajo, in the Amazon delta. That gave us three types of country to explore - the rapid rocky stretches of the Xingu River Lodge, – the mangrove creeks of Marajo, - and some primaeval rain forest beside the Teles Pires river in the north of Mato Grosso. If you want to locate those places in an atlas, the co-ordinates are roughly 52W 3S; 49W 1S, and 56W 10S respectively, with a fair bit of flying time in between. That still left us with scope for about six more future expeditions to even scratch the surface of Brazil!

 

Planning such a trip is important. It starts with making sure vaccinations are up to date (yellow fever jabs needed), checking on entry requirements (no visas for Brazil needed by British citizens, but USA folk will need them) and seeing that appropriate medication is carried (anti-malarial of choice for the Amazon is Larium). Flights and accommodation bookings, research as to appropriate tackle and angling methods, preparing check-lists of what is needed, and general reading up about the area are all part of the enjoyment and anticipation

 

We made Belem the hub of our activities, from which we made three separate expeditions to the areas we had chosen – returning to Belem to re-group after each. The accommodation varied between the luxury of the Belem Hilton for our odd nights en route (at a fiercely negotiated half price) and the basic facilities of huts in the jungle, but all went well, and the Brazilian food was superb, whether prepared by Hilton chefs or local people in the outback.

 

We came to Brazil indirectly, after a week or so with No 1 daughter in Texas, via a TAM flight from Miami to Belem. Arriving in the early hours, the Belem Hilton provided a chance to freshen up, snatch a few hours’ sleep, eat a late breakfast and catch a lunch-time Rico flight from Belem to Altameira. There we were met by transport for Xingu River Lodge. A couple of hours of vigorous driving over mainly dirt roads brought us to the lodge, on a ridge overlooking the Xingu. At the lodge, we did what so many must have done, entered reception, but ignored the reception desk and kept on walking through to the other side of the lodge, for we had caught a glimpse of the river, and that first view is just breath-taking.

 

Here is the view.

 

 

After we had had a long look at that wonderful view, Katya, the receptionist, managed to capture our attention (not too difficult, as she also was easy on the eye) and showed us to our room. At dinner, we were introduced to “Arara” (Portuguese for Macaw) the nickname of our fishing guide. He spoke no English, but Gustavo, a young lad of about 14, acted as translator. Gustavo knew nothing about fishing, so the really important information was exchanged between Arara and myself using gestures, and waving different sized lures, hooks and trace lengths at each other!

 

There were no other English speakers at the lodge – all the other anglers were Brazilian. They were affable enough and rattled away in Portuguese each evening, whilst drinking beer, until the urge to sing overcame them. One had a guitar, and sad Brazilian songs echoed well into each night. The only one we recognised was “Delilah” (sung in Portuguese) and they put a lot of pathos into it.

 

The next morning a mist overhung the Xingu, which cleared after we got afloat and the sun rose. We elected to fish plugs for the Tucanare, or Peacock Bass – the main quarry on this stretch of the river. Peacock Bass lurk near rocks, of which this location has plenty. Cast a shallow-diving, or better still a floating popper lure, near a large rock past which there is a rapid but smooth flow of water, wind the handle a couple of turns and by now you should be in business. Tucanare hit fast.

 

One thing I had read, and Arara had emphasised, is that striking is a mistake, just keep winding. The bass hit the lure hard, and then grab it – rather like our own sea bass. Feeding pattern is “hit and stun” then “turn and grab”. If you strike at the first hit you pull the lure away from the fish between the “hit” and the “grab”. Not all takes followed this pattern, some fish took the lure first time, not a hit so much as an arm-socket-jolting wrench. The initial surge of these fish when hooked is awesome, although they do not seem too good on stamina. After two or three almighty efforts they tend to come quietly. However, during those first runs they may well find a rock, or leap like bigmouth bass do, shaking their heads and throwing the lure. Nevertheless, we chalked up a good few Peacock bass during our week at Xingu. Most of them were returned, but each day one or two were kept for dinner – served baked, fried in batter or barbecued they were delicious.

 

A couple of tucanare pics.

 

 

 

There were a few other predators around, such as the Jacunda or pike-cichlid – which don’t grow very big, but are extremely aggressive in going for the lures. A very attractive fish, of which several species exist, but this stretch of river has one all of its own – and it doesn’t yet seem to have a scientific name – its referred to as “Crenicichla xingu 1” in the literature.

 

Here are two pics of male and female Jacunda. BTW don't ask which is which - the jury is still out, and it may not be correct to assume the male is the more colourful of the two.

 

 

Still another predator is the Bicuda – which looks like a miniature barracuda, and takes to the air like one. We had two species of these, neither very big.

 

Here is a picture of one Norma caught.

 

Two other much larger predators I was interested in were Trahira and Payara, but apparently the rains had come early to the headwaters, and the Xingu was rising. This meant both species had dispersed from their usual haunts. Arara said it was possible we might hook one of them by chance, but there was no way to target them once the river was rising (it came up two or three feet during our stay and was still rising when we left)

 

I was to encounter Trahira on another river later, and I got just one chance at Payara (Sabre-tooth tiger fish) on the last day at Xingu. I was fishing a shallow diving plug, and the fish hit the lure like a runaway horse, tore fifty yards off the reel in a few seconds, and then leapt – big, long and silvery, like a tarpon, shaking its head, and showing its teeth.

Ah, those teeth – so many and so big that the lure was still wedged amongst them, without the fish being properly hooked. The inevitable happened, and the lure came free. A pity, as it was a fish well into double figures, and would have been a good climax to the week – but a great excuse to go back !

 

Restrictions on numbers of pics in a post means this account will need to be presented in several episodes. The next one will concern the catfish of the Xingu, and a word or three about the piranhas.

Edited November 22, 2006 by Vagabond

[Newt]

Magic Vagabond. Pure magic. Anxiously awaiting your remaining posts.

 

The US anglers I've spoken to who have gone into Mexico after peacock bass say much the same as you did. Smashing take, screaming run or two, then pretty docile into the boat. Unlike the largemouth though, larger peacock seem to fight a bit harder and longer.

 

If you could spare a little space to describe the boat(s) you used, I would love to hear about them.

[Dick Dastardly]

Many thanks for taking the time to post such an interesting report.Ive never fished the Amazon and really now regret not acepting the offer I had to a few years back.At the time I was very size driven and the guys I was to go with (all American bar one Dutch guy) wanted to lure fish for Peacock Bass and the likes.It didnt apeal to me at the time (I was asked along basicly on the grounds of catfishing).I now wish I had accepted the offer! Sod the cats and have some what is obviously very exciting lure fishing.

 

Looking forward to the next installment.

[Waveney One]

Great post vagabond. Some great looking fish as well.

[Sam the fish]

Wow!! The stuff of dreams! Great reading there Vagabonds. Fishing the Amazon is on my hit list for the future - would love to go there!

 

I went to India and Australia for similar adventures this year myself, choosing where to go next year is turning out to be quite a dilema! So many countries and species to choose from!!

 

Looking forward to the second installment! Great report!

[chesters1]

stockbridge not wild enough then

carefull of the natives ,carefull of that marvelous beard ,have fun and take plenty of pictures! and notes theres a book waiting to be written on your return ,or a telly program even

[captain cojones]

Absolutely brilliant report and some stunning pictures!well done. im looking forward to reading the next instalments!

cheers dave.

[Ken Davison South Wales]

Not often I pop over to this side of the fence but I am really glad I did, great report and pics really looking forward to part two.

[Bobj]

Brilliant, Vagabond. Hope you get a bag full of memories and pics.

[Snatcher]

I hung onto every word Dave. An excellent report,cannot wait for the next one. Jealousy is the word I am looking for I suppose

 

Will I be seeing you and Norma again on the Mull of Galloway again in the near future?If you do ever venture that way again will try and put you onto a bass or two if you fancy it