Another new reel project

[Guest bbamboo]

Looking forward to seeing more pictures.

 

Looking real good

[tincatinca]

Oops!

 

After all of that time making those six pretty compression spokes at 0.060" diameter I really should have put my big engineer's hat on.

 

I just assembled the reel and started to adjust the spokes. I got to within 0.0025" of getting the reel spot on and......dink! One of the spokes did a fair impression of a dog's hind leg.

 

Oh well, when I extended the design length of the spoke from 31/32" to 1 9/16" I should have made them thicker!

 

Job done now, six new 0.080" spokes with 7ba threads. I just have to drill out the hub and tap that 7ba as well.

 

Some impressive stuff and reading it has certainly taught me a great deal. I am particularly interested in how you true up and balance the reel as I am looking to make up a simple adjustment jig with a range of removeable pins that suit the bushings on my spoked reels. My initial thoughts are to incorporate 2 DTIs, with one positioned in the vertical and the other in the horizontal plane. It must have been very frustrating to have got so close before the spoke buckled and I can fully imagine the initial reaction that followed. It is surprising how much effect that a Gnats doodah can make. When I was an apprentice, one of the things that was knocked into us was to develop a touch like a midwife and for a time that conjured up all sorts of things . It is a great job that you are doing there

[watatoad]

What a wonderful thing to do and for that matter to be able to do. Congratulations on a really great job well done, very clearly explained. Keep it up. P.S. any chance of its brother...hehehe. I would love to give a reel you made a go.

[Rusty]

Job done now, six new 0.080" spokes with 7ba threads.

 

While you're in spoke making mode Worms I wonder if you'd be able to help me out in exchange for your fave Chrimbo tipple?

 

I was trueing up a Free Spirit Searcher the other day and one of the plain spokes snapped, they’re made of brass and I understand that brass doesn’t have the strength of nickel steel (although I over did it anyway).

 

It’s possible to have all of the spokes replaced in steel but I’d rather keep the original finish and look, it’s also an opportunity to support AN enterprises.

 

I did manage to true the drum using the other 5 spokes and so have simply glued the broken one back together so I don’t loose the short end. The thread is undamaged and 11BA I think.

 

If I sent you the bits would you be able to replicate the spoke? I'd be really grateful if you could but if it means you buying materials/tooling which you don’t already have then I wouldn’t want to put you to that trouble.

[Worms]

Some impressive stuff and reading it has certainly taught me a great deal. I am particularly interested in how you true up and balance the reel as I am looking to make up a simple adjustment jig with a range of removeable pins that suit the bushings on my spoked reels. My initial thoughts are to incorporate 2 DTIs, with one positioned in the vertical and the other in the horizontal plane. It must have been very frustrating to have got so close before the spoke buckled and I can fully imagine the initial reaction that followed. It is surprising how much effect that a Gnats doodah can make. When I was an apprentice, one of the things that was knocked into us was to develop a touch like a midwife and for a time that conjured up all sorts of things . It is a great job that you are doing there

Cheers all,

 

Tinca, the way I set up my spoked 'pins involves nothing in the way of high-tech gear. I have DTIs and height gauges etc. but I find that the "Mk 1 eyeball" is more than adequate for the job.

 

There are however two useful bits of low-tech kit that I use, a roll of masking tape to sit the reel on and a soft pencil/marker pen.

 

I just sit the reel on the masking tape roll and spin the spool. If you can't see any significant wobble it's ok. If you do see a wobble you have to make a decision to mark either the low point or the high point. It doesn't matter which as long as you are consistent.

 

If you mark the high point with your marker pen/soft pencil on a tension spoke reel (aerial etc) proceed by removing the spool, and slackening the spoke at the high point A FRACTION of a turn. Tighten the spoke opposite the same amount. You will probably get it right within about ten minutes but, if you're like me you'll spend the next 4 hours trying to get it to within 0.0005" and going hopelessly awry!

 

Compression spoke reels such as Pattern 9s and Flik ems are adjusted in the same way but remember that to remove the wobble you wind in the spoke at the high point (towards the hub) and to tighten you wind it out!

 

Watatoad, if I ever manage to make two of the same and feel like getting rid of one then unfortunately for you Tigger put his claim in first.........don't worry though I don't think that Tigger is losing sleep in expectation

Edited December 18, 2009 by Worms

[Worms]

While you're in spoke making mode Worms I wonder if you'd be able to help me out in exchange for your fave Chrimbo tipple?

 

I was trueing up a Free Spirit Searcher the other day and one of the plain spokes snapped, they’re made of brass and I understand that brass doesn’t have the strength of nickel steel (although I over did it anyway).

 

It’s possible to have all of the spokes replaced in steel but I’d rather keep the original finish and look, it’s also an opportunity to support AN enterprises.

 

I did manage to true the drum using the other 5 spokes and so have simply glued the broken one back together so I don’t loose the short end. The thread is undamaged and 11BA I think.

 

If I sent you the bits would you be able to replicate the spoke? I'd be really grateful if you could but if it means you buying materials/tooling which you don’t already have then I wouldn’t want to put you to that trouble.

You have a PM!

[Tigger]

Watatoad, if I ever manage to make two of the same and feel like getting rid of one then unfortunately for you Tigger put his claim in first.........don't worry though I don't think that Tigger is losing sleep in expectation

 

 

 

Err, that's where your wrong Mr Worms, I've not had a good nights sleep since

 

Glad you made a mental note I got my name down first

 

Oh and that was for each model

Edited December 18, 2009 by Tigger

[Dalesdad]

Yet another enthralling post worms, great stuff.

 

Will keep an eye out for scrap alloy at work for you but we don't use much now.

 

Tight lines

 

Gary

[Worms]

Yet another enthralling post worms, great stuff.

 

Will keep an eye out for scrap alloy at work for you but we don't use much now.

 

Tight lines

 

Gary

Cheers Gary!

 

Well, it's been a while but I've done a bit more. The spool is all trued up, the handles are on, the ratchet is fixed on and all has been finally rivetted. Just the fitting of the reel foot and then a final clean and localised polish and I'll be just in time for the Teme to get somewhere near a decent level

 

The difficult bits?

 

Well calculating the pivot point of the operating lever was the biggest. I needed to move the ratchet pawl 0.15" from off to on. I wanted 0.500" movement at the finger end. Anyway using the lever length as 2.300", a reduction of approximately 3.5:1 required the pivot point at 0.535" away from the pawl pivot rivet!

 

After making the last "hairpin" sprung ratchet system and tuning old reels to lefthand wind I knew that I was in for some fine tuning of the caliper spring. I wasn't disappointed! A tweak here and a tweak there for about an hour and a half finally gave me a soft ratchet winding in and a slightly harder ratchet to allow for a baitrunner style system, although not rapidly adjustable. It is however adjustable by finger pressure on the lever whilst holding the rod. I allowed a little extra movement that enables me to pull up on the lever whilst playing a fish or if touch ledgering in a strong current. This drops the pawl deeper into the ratchet gear teeth. This is a smooth operation as the caliper spring ends ride up the semi-round indentations on the pawl. Letting go automatically centralises the spring ends in the indentations.

 

 

 

 

 

[Dick Dastardly]

Really looking forward to seeing the end result mate!