Ultimate bobbin

[Rusty]

Next week I'm going to make a centrepin out of a baked bean tin

 

Great news, I'm in the market for a new one but there's nothing interesting about at the moment. Will it be ready by the 16th?

[tincatinca]

Great news, I'm in the market for a new one but there's nothing interesting about at the moment. Will it be ready by the 16th?

 

You do of course realise that there is a 3 year waiting list

[poledark]

Being serious now Those long rodrests will sway around in any wind far more than a bobbin will, and the rod will wave about all over the place in a slight breeze.

 

I tried something similar yesterday (admittedly the breeze was half a gale) but even with 4 alloy landing net handles as the posts pushed in to the ground, the whole setup was waving about all over the place. This transmits down to the rig (or in my case feeder) and probably spooks any wary fish.

 

I "have a thing" about vibrations/movements being transmitted down the line, which is why I almost always bury the rod tips in the water, unless there is very little breeze, in which case I just keep the rod tips as near the water as possible.

 

I take the point about back leads and uneven lake bottoms, but even if you fish "slack line"........with a bobbin??????, then the line will rise from the bottom at some way out. Backleads eliminate most of that.

 

As most of you know, I fish a lot and often on my own, with 3 rods, and backleading down under the rod tops has saved me an awful lot of grief when playing

fish. Where I cant do it effectively due to shallow margins, then I put seperate rod rests each side so I can prop the other rods up as a fish gets closer in...............very effective, and a dodge being adopted by quite a few blokes who have seen them.

 

As for liners, my experience tells me that fish will brush past a "tight" line, but will drag a slack line.

 

Den

[Dick Dastardly]

Your spot on there Den.

 

In shallow (enough) water my dodge with multi rods for many years was to pick up the extra rods whilst playing the fish and dunk them in the water resting the butts on the buzzers/front rests. In deep water this obviously cant be done so I use a back lead not just off the rod tip but when using bolt rigs actually closer towards the bank.

 

Problem with first method is that Ive always worried about a fish actually hitting the rod and getting tangled/dragging it off the rest! These days as long as the swim/situation allows I prefer to have the rods as far back as I can and then directly back lead of the tip.Obviously depends on the marginal contours though.

 

We are back to this line bite business again! Even though I agree with Dens "brushing/tight lines and dragging/slack lines" observation.I actually want to get liners! I dont think that they scare bream on slack lines (despite definitely dragging the line) but even though Ive not actually seen them spook of tight lines I have carp. I think that bumping into anything they cant see spooks them but if they can see it they ain't at all worried no matter how tight or slack it is. Once again visually something Ive only seen with carp but presume the bream behave much the same (?)

 

What I dont want to do is strike at line bites! this definitely spooks all fish that Ive experienced. As such its not so much "avoiding" liners I thinks important but being able to differentiate between them and true bites.

[Tigger]

Den, have you ever used flying backleads and captive backleads together ? It's something I'm gonna try out myself. Just curious what type/weight of backlead you use also ?

Edited April 2, 2010 by Tigger

[poledark]

Rarely used the flying ones, they never seem to fly back for me

 

The tethered backleads I use are my own design, and weigh 1 1/2oz. They usually come off when I get a take/run, but sometimes when the pickup is very slow, they stay on until I pull in to the fish. They actually formed the basic design for the Fox Springloks

 

I have had one instance where a fish dived under one of the other backleaded lines, an almighty tangle, but without a backlead I often got in a mess with 3 lines tangled up............................thats when I designed my backleads 3 lots of expensive Powerpro tangled in the dark is no joke.

 

Den

Edited April 2, 2010 by poledark

[Tigger]

Rarely used the flying ones, they never seem to fly back for me

 

The tethered backleads I use are my own design, and weigh 1 1/2oz. They usually come off when I get a take/run, but sometimes when the pickup is very slow, they stay on until I pull in to the fish. They actually formed the basic design for the Fox Springloks

 

I have had one instance where a fish dived under one of the other backleaded lines, an almighty tangle, but without a backlead I often got in a mess with 3 lines tangled up............................thats when I designed my backleads 3 lots of expensive Powerpro tangled in the dark is no joke.

 

Den

 

 

 

I was thinking of putting a float stop several feet up my line (back from my rig) so even if the flying lead doesn't slide back down my line it's still doing a job inbetween the captive backlead and the bait (if you get me).

[wyeknot]

Rarely used the flying ones, they never seem to fly back for me

Den

Strange that Den. I use flying leads quite a lot and they have always worked for me. I wonder if it may be the shape of the lead that causes this for you. Some of them have rounded ends and rough shaped holes through them which impede their effect. The best ones I have found are Gardners and Solar ones. Solars have a PTFE liner and they really do slide up the line. So much so that I sometimes switch them round so that the bigger end is on the rod tip side which makes them less efficient aerodynamically but they still end up flying 10 to 20 yards up the line depending on how far I am casting.

 

Tigger - If you only want to pin down your line a few feet up the line then I would suggest you look at the new Korda Sinkers. These are float stop shaped weights that you slide on the line in the same way but are heavy so they sink the line. they come in two sizes, I think, and are dark in colour so they will blend in with the lake/river bed.

 

Steve C.

[Anderoo]

As someone who is still on the first rung of the big bream ladder, I am taking my lead from anglers who have successfully targetted and caught very large, low stock gravel pit bream. Seems like a sensible place to start anyway! I am still unconvinced that carp fishing for whatever comes along will produce may of these fish...

 

I just set my rods as high as conditions allow - sometimes that's not that high! They were high in the photos because I was seeing the maximum extent of the 'drop' the swingers allow

 

I do want to see liners (pins in the map, very valuable information) just not strike at them.

[Tigger]

Tigger - If you only want to pin down your line a few feet up the line then I would suggest you look at the new Korda Sinkers. These are float stop shaped weights that you slide on the line in the same way but are heavy so they sink the line. they come in two sizes, I think, and are dark in colour so they will blend in with the lake/river bed.

 

Steve C.

 

 

Thank's for that Steve but the kordas are one use only arn't they and the flyers are re usable until lost ? I want to pin my line as much as poss from the rod tip to the bait that's why I was thinking of useing both a captive and a flying back lead. I've got some of the fox flyers and some fox and gardner captives, so I'll give em a whirl when I get the opportunity.